Ones to Watch catwalk show report A/W 2015 for LFWFashion WeekAW15
Pushing the boundaries between texture, colour and shape, JMoon brings a unique and distinctive aesthetic to the new season. Opening the show with thick stitch knitwear, Jinhee Moon explores the use of block colours creating angular abstract ensembles. With deep cream bases, linear divisions of intense coloured patterns draw the eye from head to toe.
Oversized jumpers hung on the models with an androgynous effect, whilst maintaining femininity with delicate finishing. Paired with straight-cut, loose fit trousers, the looks came together with ease – despite the youthful brand, the collection is well developed and distinguished.
The South Korean designer’s style verges upon that of a childrenswear range, with a sweet shop colour palette and oversized motifs. Minju Kim who has recently collaborated with Disney, presents items clad with Minnie Mouse on acid – or so it may seem. The collection is mixed, with a progressively maturing style as the models work through the range.
Leather headpieces compliment boxy crop tops with shoulder slices, brassiere-style knitwear and peplum skirts; the range ripens with a distinctively angular cut replacing the girlish style previously seen. Reaffirming the seductive nature that has cultivated, she throws a knitted gimp mask into the mix – brave and daring, it is no wonder she won the H&M Design Award in 2013.
The collection Bunny with Short Legs, inspired by a myriad of military styles, sees the designer incorporate earthy greens with flamboyant red and yellow into a patchwork of textures. Her army of “bunnies” creates a whimsical ambiance, with looks showcasing their own rebellious yet romantic personality.
Combining heavy wools and light cottons, texture collaged trench coats act as an encomium to bourgeoisie lace playsuits. With influence from Wes Anderson’s Moonrise Kingdom, the range has the capacity to be audacious and unconventional. Encouraging layering through capes and tiers of fabric, Angel Chen’s new line is playful yet bold.
Autonomous: Kim Stevenson
With the freedom to act independently, this is precisely what Kim Stevenson has done in this collection. Weighted fabrics create heavy silhouettes, with ethically sourced and hand-crafted materials that exude practicality whilst remaining defined.
Stevenson’s tunic incorporates dense denim with vibrant red stitching, whilst her oversized knitwear offers a softer finish with navy torso and knit-fringed arms. Raw edges produce a relaxed quality and cut-out flowers denote a femininity that is otherwise slightly masked.
Photos: Chloe Newman