E Tautz catwalk show report A/W 2016 for LCMLondon Collections Men AW16
As many designers seem to have done this season, Patrick Grant found the inspiration for his latest collection in the past – and in a very particular time and place.
If, like Grant, you were a stylish young thing living in Edinburgh in the mid-1980s, chances are you would have put on your best Gabicci jumper and gone to Coasters roller disco. Viewed through the lens of nostalgia, it was the unique blend of nonchalance and energy epitomised by the Coasters kids that inspired the latest designs at E Tautz.
The designer infused his customarily sleek tailoring with a supersized, sporty edge, keeping his silhouettes clean but loose to allow for freedom of movement (necessary, we imagine, if one plans to attend a roller disco).
Slouchy, oversized wool and cashmere coats enveloped the body, usually in the form of trench or boxy double breasted designs. Beneath these, hand-knitted sweaters had a familiar, vintage vibe, which was grounded in luxury by the high-quality wool and mohair fabrics.
One of the highlights of this collection was undoubtedly Grant’s sophisticated take on the quintessential 1980s shell suit. Lightweight wool or linen shirts were tucked into billowing pleated trousers in matching hues of grey or navy, all belted at the waist to give the free-flowing shapes some structure.
Printed silk scarves finished off many of the otherwise simple, neutral-toned ensembles with just the tiniest hint of retro flamboyance. With his perfectly balanced shapes, classic colour palette and rich textures, Patrick Grant has – somehow – made retro roller disco feel contemporary and cool.
Photos: Krish Nagari