James Kelly autumn/winter 2016 collection presentation for LFWLondon Fashion Week AW16
With an approach based on emotion and instinct, James Kelly brings yet another collection to LFW that deconstructs convention and builds on a foundation that evokes awareness of sensation.
In keeping with his previous collections, Kelly chose a creative muse for his new line: the artwork of Francis Bacon. Distorting traditional tailoring, Kelly combined sports jackets into classic outerwear pieces, developing a textural embrace between nylon and wool. Manipulated and unfinished seams span across the collection, with garments infused together to form full pieces.
Dismissing gender conventions, this season’s presentation created a hazy experience for the audience. With male and female models freely placed in a scene similar to Bacon’s besmirched hotel room, the androgynous line was viewed with a sense of voyeurism. Lethargic music echoing, the models touched each other in a languid yet erotic quality, creating a discomforting ambiance in Freemasons’ Hall.
James Kelly’s A/W 2016 seems to have matured from his recent collections feeling darker, starker and less delicate. There is a true consistency to his work which is impressive for such an emerging designer.
Photos: Erol Birsen