Apu Jan spring/summer 2018 collection catwalk show for LFWLondon Fashion Week SS18
With a collection inspired by short-lived flowers and their withering, Apu Jan’s “Before Last Petal Falls” aims to encapsulate and freeze the beauty of flowers. Apu Jan is recognised and commended for highlighting and incorporating oriental folk tales and stories into contemporary designed pieces and it was no different this season, with a collection that included the elements of storybooks, clocks, fantasy beasts and palaeontology.
The pattern components include blossom petals, leaves, spring snow and ink echoing the theme of preserving flowers and their beauty, but also is a nod to Edgar Allen Poe’s “The Fall of the House of Usher”. Colours and textures have been used to imitate the falling petals, paying homage to O Henry’s “The Last Leaf” in a colour palette of grey, black and white, with elements of pastel blue and pink which is meant to symbolise flower petals. Open back dresses in pale pink, reflective of blossom, contrasts with knitted pieces including one that adorned a white structured shirt and tailored trousers combination.
The collection deploys silk knitting and print work, with oriental elements such as horse hood sleeves and mandarin sleeves which can be seen on a number of suits and dresses amongst the 33 garment collection. Also knitwear was particularly present in the form of light knitted dresses – in grey tones – which can still be worn even on the warmer of spring/summer days. The collection showed similarities to last season which included elegant pleated skirts and exposed backs and were seen here this season through backless dresses. This line embodied elegance through the use of silk knitting and also included self-developed unique jacquard and chiffon materials.
Structuring was a key design element, most evident in a number of garments including a pink jacquard two piece consisting of a structured fit long sleeve and cropped pink short trouser. The design reiterates the themes of blossom and ideates Apu Jan’s essence of a bold attitude with a touch of casualness. Draping was also a key feature – although many garments also included a structured waist– and could be used to symbolise the falling of a flowers petals or the fragility of a flower in bloom.
The live music – of the r&b, soul and house genre – created a smooth soulful ambience which could be seen to indicate the extension and freezing of a flowers beauty, but also created a mellow atmosphere. The muted colour palette drew further attention to the level of detail and care given to the garments, whilst the textures imitate the beauty, romance and extended life of the flower.
Photos: Krish Nagari