Tata Naka spring/summer 2018 collection presentation for LFWLondon Fashion Week SS18
With previous lines described as exciting, directional and avant-garde, the collection this season, created by twin sisters Tamara and Natasha, uses colours that explore summer with notes of blossom, saffron and pearl being transpired through the range. Inspired by 40s and 50s femininity, the line features a colour palette of purples, cream and pink with other pops of colour in the form of hair pieces (in yellow and orange) as well as large decorative metallic earrings and gold buckle belts for one line, whilst another centralises on subtle tailored pieces, many with white panelling in a colour palette of mint green, lemon and pale pink denoting ice cream or sweets as the inspiration.
Many of their statement pieces appeared in hit TV show “Sex and the City” and with designs like a vintage inspired floral dress and matching suit jacket, a ruffle shoulder maxi dress, as well as a tied shirt and matching short combination, you can see why fashionista Carrie Bradshaw was a fan. Dark lipsticks yet minimalistic make-up channels the nostalgic appearance of summer separates, popover dresses, vintage-style jumpsuits and skirted shorts. The looks, finished with flat strapped sandals, wouldn’t appear out of place on an American boardwalk, an idea further exemplified by the music floating around the gallery space.
The lines also take inspiration from Claire McCardell’s “American Sportswear”, which later went on to revolutionise women’s fashion in America. McCardell’s inspiration on chic cruise-wear of the 40s ans 50s is translated and explored by Tata Naka in a seasonally appropriate colour palette, shapes and structured pieces. Cruise-wear inspiration is visible as structured pink jumpsuits, white button front dresses, and yellow tops and green maxi skirts contrasted with the striped and sashed pieces that featured alongside them. Further more a wide- legged jumpsuit paired with gold woven strapped sandals, strong cheek highlight and pink purple hair accessories was complimented by differing floral patterned maxi dresses, belted shorts and strapless top separates, and a ruffle top with cut out shoulders and co-ordinating skirt combination.
The collection utilises the fun and quirky elements of fashion design and composition, with models posing amongst gold gilded rustic frames that helped enhance the richness of colours and draw attention to the features of lemongrass, sage and aubergine within the floral pieces, and made the colours brighter and bolder for the cruisewear inspired pieces. Models changed from one themed ensemble to the next, showing the integration of different designs and patterns, and how the separates can compliment one another. The line also shows inspiration from prevalent photographers during the 40s and 50s, namely Frances McLaughlin – the first female photographer under contract with Vogue – and also Louise Dahl-Wolfe, renowned for her time with Harper’s Bazaar. The artwork theme transcended not only through the collection, but also due to the location of the National Portrait Gallery.
Tata Naka’s collages of vintage floral designs as well as striped elements and tailored pieces exemplify and enhance the appearance of the lightweight silks and natural cottons they are placed upon. The twins capitalise on the “florals for spring and summer” trend and have explored this through a number of pieces, colourings and styles that will appeal to their audience. The themes of femininity from the 40s and 50s has been given a modern and stylist interpretation with basic white pieces such as a blazer have been incorporated with summery pops of colour or being used as the base note for the floral design.
Photos: Kimberley Archer