Discovering Parma, a place where trattorias, parmesan makers and handmade pasta are at the centre of daily life
Everyone has eaten Italian food in their lifetime – it is the most popular cuisine worldwide. As one of the most influential culinary styles, it reflects freshness, culture and a commitment to using high-quality ingredients. Each region of the country is known for a specific craft, from central areas such as Umbria (also known as ‘the green heart of Italy’) – famous for its black truffle and olive oil – to Campania, birthplace of pizza. Many proudly showcase their gastronomic heritage and traditions, but none quite like Emilia-Romagna. Considered Italy’s epicurean cradle, it is renowned for tagliatelle, lasagne, tortellini, ragù alla bolognese, Parmigiano Reggiano and prosciutto di Parma. This land excels at flavours that balance comfort with refinement. As the name may give away, the last two originate from the city of Parma.
Early in October, a visit to the region proved to be an eye-opening journey of gastronomic excellence. From preparing handmade pasta in-house to indulging in more contemporary takes, it was a true celebration of culinary craft. We started with dinner at Ai Due Platani trattoria, located in the hamlet of Coloreto – a wonderful introduction to Emilia-Romagna’s deeply rooted local traditions. An exceptional meal of cured meat, fresh gnocchi and gelato, creamed with an authentic Carpigiani, was elevated by my first tasting of Lambrusco. Primarily produced in Modena, like most red wines, it’s known for being sparkling with a red berry taste.
The next morning brought the main highlight: exploring Caseificio Bertinelli’s Parmigiano Reggiano production facility. There was a thrill in seeing where something one usually encounters only at the table actually begins its journey. The air carried the unmistakable aroma of raw ingredients – familiar yet more intense than I’ve ever experienced. We were treated to a guided tour of the dairy and taught about the ingredients and process of creating the famous cheese – the process of turning milk to curd, how the result is cooked and the three main lactic populations involved. We watched as the contents of the bell-shaped vat transformed into hot whey, with small pieces of cooked curd floating on the surface. The cheesemakers then waited for these pieces to set and sink to the base. This is cheese, but not yet parmigiano, because there is still one ingredient missing: salt. Lastly, we had the chance to try different maturations of the cheese, including 24, 36 and 60 months, which revealed a wide array in depth of flavour, from nuttiness to an almost woody undertone.
Following our tour, we took part in a cooking class at Ristorante Parma Rotta, led by chefs Antonio Di Vita and Federico Palo. Its name, meaning “Parma’s route”, derives from the fact that this area was flooded by the local river before it was dammed. Here we were shown how to create several different types of pasta, among them gnocchi, tortellini and tagliatelle. There was something very grounding about watching these iconic dishes being crafted from scratch – an art that requires patience and precision. We did, of course, get to try some of the pasta afterwards (as well as some more fresh gelato!). The welcoming, relaxed location and dining experience brought out the true nature of Parma.
After lunch, we had some time to explore the historic centre, which is elegant and easy to take in. Soft tones, cobbled streets and broad portico-lined avenues give the city a refined, gentle character, and the pace is unhurried as café tables spill onto squares throughout the day. Visiting Parma Cathedral was a transcendent experience. Blanketed in renaissance art, the romanesque edifice displays heritage including grand frescoes by Correggio amid an almost celestial atmosphere that is intensified by the choir singing in the pews. It’s a cathedral like no other. Further exploration outside revealed many more winding streets, antique shops and traditional cafes.
As the evening approached, we headed to Croce di Malta for dinner. The creative menu extended beyond the dishes we were having at the time, including a lot of fresh vegetable produce and unexpected combinations. This restaurant was a contemporary osteria, which successfully brought local specialities to the table.
The following morning brought us to a Culatello di Zibello curing cellar followed by a tasting at Al Vedel restaurant. Entering the cellar was like stepping into a cavern: cool, dim, quiet and utterly steeped in history. Darkened with age, hundreds of the pear-shaped culatello hung in rows, from the ceiling and lining the walls. We were shown how the mould, alongside the humidity and temperature of the room, helps with the aging process of each leg.
To complete the trip we dined at Cortex Bistrot, a place that offered a harmonious blend of international and traditional dishes. There was an array of ingredients, such as caramelised onion, celery and orzo, but a favourite was the chicken broth, garnished with chives and housing small pieces of parmigiano. Despite its simplicity, it rounded off the visit nicely, using a key ingredient that is quite literally world renowned and integral to the city.
Cheesemakers, cured-meat producers, long-established trattorias and a stunning cathedral all paint a beautiful image of the Parma region’s proud culture, which is channelled throughout their cuisine.
Olivia Barker
Photos: Olivia Barker (except header by SA_ENIT-SpA)
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