Masala Zone in Piccadilly Circus

On a rainy Sunday in Central London, the streets brimming with shoppers, the search for a warm, non-commercial haven, with a few seats still up for grabs, can prove to be quite a task. The restaurant we are about to try isn’t crowded as we first settle in, but, as expected, it fills up by the time our drinks arrive. Already running two popular sites in Covent Garden and Soho, Masala Zone has recently acquired another prime spot: the historic 1873 Criterion Restaurant building. Right beside the entrance of the namesake theatre, in the past, the fronts of establishments here rarely offered anything beyond a conventional pre-theatre pit-stop. With an already established reputation, Masala Zone turns this area into a retreat for the waves of tourists, foodies and casual passersby, all seeking a feast for their taste buds.

The golden ceiling complements the interior, decked out with Indian memorabilia including elephant sculptures and vibrantly coloured paintings. The overall lighting, characterised by amber tones, enhances the subdued glow and rich orange palette. It’s an ostentatious setting, no question about it, yet it strikes just the right balance to avoid veering into swanky.

The food menu spans three full pages, offering an assorted array of selections and one guarantee: there is something to tickle every fancy or Indian cuisine craving, from snacky street food to sharing platters, through to comforting curries, and slow-cooked and fragrant biryani. As we glance over the first page, we are suggested that the small plates are a must at Masala Zone. So, we indulge in the Madras Chicken 65 – hailing from Chennai in the southeast of India – whose impeccable coating makes for delicious chicken.

The Jaipur Gol Guppa Pops, true to their name, vanish in a pop and would go well as light appetisers to accompany cocktails. On the drinks, we opt for the Bollywood Star Martini, presented with a side shot of prosecco to add at the guest’s leisure, but the tipple’s sweetness is enough to enjoy on its own; as the other option, we also have the more refreshing Santara Cosmopolitan. A special mention goes to the last of our small plates: the addictively tasty Delhi Jalebi Chaat, a cool salad starring crispy jalebi (flour-batter spirals) scattered with satisfying crunch in a bed of smoothness.

As the recipes range from well-known classics to traditional regional specialities, the mains are a tricky pick. Nevertheless, the servings are reasonably portioned, leaving room to nibble on a variety of courses when ordering to share at the table. There are four thalis (typical Indian dining-at-home platters with a mix of curries, vegetables, dal, etc.); the grilled section is an interesting list, where all meats are marinated overnight and requires a 15-minute waiting time (a testament to the virtue of patience in Indian kitchens). Indeed, the meat is remarkably luscious throughout. We decide on the Traditional Lucknow Lamb Biryani, where the lamb is tender and lyrically blends with the aromatic rice, prepared with a delightful medley of spices. The Butter Chicken curry is a proper creamy treat.

To finish off, the indulgent Gajjar Halwa is the not-too-sweet dessert we are looking for. However, the dense biscuit base doesn’t quite complement it. The Pistachio Kulfi, served in a monoportion pot instead of the more commonly seen stick, retains a nutty bite and a condensed texture.

Considering the prominent location at the heart of the shopping district, the impact on the wallet is more than manageable for such a well-done spread. Paying homage to the delectable assortment of Indian cuisine, Masala Zone offers a banquet of flavours with spiciness and swift service.

Cristiana Ferrauti
Photos: Cristiana Ferrauti

To book a table at Masala Zone, 224 Piccadilly London W1J 9HP, call 020 7930 6622 or visit their website here.