The Orangery in Kensington: “An institution”

The Orangery has relaunched to delight guests with royal afternoon teas, breakfast and lunch options. After six years of renovation, the beautiful building next to Kensington Palace has reopened for the spring/summer season, showcasing a thorough clean-up and touch-ups that magnificently highlight the original architectural features. Dating back to 1704, the space, designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor, was originally commissioned by Queen Anne as a sumptuous greenhouse. The graceful casting of the light over the Corinthian columns and the white panelling – which dramatically expands the view over the vault – along with the ornate decor exhibiting statues by Pietro Francavilla and carvings by Grinling Gibbons above the arches at the end of the room, makes it easy to understand why the Queen didn’t limit the use of the venue to hosting plants. Eventually, she opened the doors of this verdant abode to summer suppers and parties as well.

And indeed, on one of the very first sunny weekends in London, with the pristine tablecloths gleaming and the blue sky making the bright colours of the reawakening season even more impactful, we made our way to the palace (well, next door) for our lunch reservation. The Company of Cooks, with executive chef Karen Poynter, heads the kitchen, and so the culinary operations are in the capable hands of a team that has had experiences in the other Royal Palaces, for formal, intimate and large meals, both gourmet and simple. As our waiter informs us, they know well what (royal) guests like to indulge and the right portions to satisfy their appetites.

The wine list puts an equal accent on both English and European labels, starting with a bottle of Ridgeview Bloomsbury, the official wine served at the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee celebration in 2022, and including Borgo Del Col Alto Spumante and Norte Sur Organic Chardonnay.

We begin our meal with the London Smoked Salmon, plated as delicate roses, which proves to be as tasty as it is pretty. The Prawn and Avocado Cocktail is a meaty choice glass, though the Bloody Mary dressing risks overpowering the other ingredients, it still gives to the glass an unusual kick.

Moving to the mains, the Courgette Risotto is a generous and enjoyable course that also maintains a certain lightness in every bite. The type of grains used are certified gluten-free, with the vegan feta substituting the dairy element, and the toasted seeds adding a subtle hint of crunch. It’s a dish for all, perfectly expressing the restaurant’s intention to tastefully cater for everyone with the same menu, regardless of allergens, and to the guest’s full satisfaction. The Palace Pie is a more filling option, prepared with a luscious minced mix of braisd lamb shoulder and beef rib, topped with Somerset cheddar mash.

The presentation of the desserts reflects the precision of the onset. The Victoria’s Trifle arrives under a glass bell that captures for a few more seconds – before letting it dissolve into the air – a wisp of smoke, imparting a faint essence of torched wood. The slightly gelatinous consistency of the three layers makes up for the usual solid perception of this type of pudding. The signature dish The Orange delivers zesty tones with its sorbet and citrus salad, softened by the chocolate spongy crumble on the side.

Tantalised throughout our lunch by the nearby tables ordering the sweet and sour multi-tiered afternoon tea, we finish with a pick from the double-page tea list. Aromatic, gentle, and classic, all the blends are supplied by Hope & Glory. Our Organic Red Velvet bears a flushed red colour, its intense hue yielding in an exquisite berry-infused sip – it proves why The Orangery can be considered an institution among tea houses.

Cristiana Ferrauti
Photos: Cristiana Ferrauti

To book a table at The Orangery, Kensington Palace Gardens London W8 4PX, call 020 3206 7780 or visit the restaurant’s website here.