Chilean-born designer Gabriel Vielma originally studied industrial design in Madrid before discovering, in his words: “the dimension of movement that is unique to fashion design”. On account of this, he relocated to London where he studied this passion at Central St Martins and subsequently founded the label.
From this starting point, Vielma London has grown into its own and sets itself apart from other high-end designer brands. It is known to capture the interchangeability of the moods and feelings of women; a story that unfolds with each collection and the latest designs do no less.
Situated in front of the ME London hotel, the Vielma London A/W 2015 presentation Dark Tales successfully articulated the deep intensity of the British woman. The colour palette, a mix of grey and black bases with hints of deep green and burgundy, pointed toward the shadows of the female character. In juxtaposition with the dense shades, the collection showcased a delicate choice of fabrics. The fusion of organza, mesh and feathering prevented the pieces from looking flat and ensured elegance was also depicted.
In keeping with its title however, Dark Tales definitely retained focus on, well, darkness. This was achieved by its unusual inclusion of the anatomy. The mannequins were covered with skeletal stickers and one was dressed in a shift dress showcasing a printed rib cage. It is this literal exploration of what lies beneath that sets Vielma apart from others for the upcoming season.
Photos: Melissa Williams