Nolcha Shows spring/summer 2017 collection catwalk show for NYFWNew York Fashion Week SS17
On a comfortably cool Monday evening in New York City, an updated gallery space near Chelsea Piers served as the runway space for a day full of Nolcha’s collective of designers to display their spring/summer lines. Often heralded as New York Fashion Week’s unofficial underground cousin, Nolcha Shows are a somewhat of an open secret in the industry as a springboard for lesser-known designers to display their talents.
The first designer is Samantha Leibowitz, a brand with a rather extensive set of programme notes, look book and self-written back story whichdescribes her clientele – the “Samantha Leibowitz girl” – as being among “the independent, adventurous…highly generous and down-to-earth”. Her runway ensued with a collection of grey scale and original prints of accessible ready-to-wear separates. Models, styled in a contemporary half-up top knot, made convincing display of mod chiffon tops and mini dresses. Sleeves with vented slits echoed leggings of the same style. A highlight included a convertible red dress with a drawstring which utilised a functional pulley to create a slit up to the waist.
From a relatively muted colour palette sprang a panoply of tropical island colors, courtesy of design couple known as ACID NYC. The oceans of the tropics sprang up with rich mangoes, lime greens and azure. An aqua hooded beach romper with green piping was paired with a fish purse. Prints and embroidery mimicked coral reef patterns. An iridescent paneled skirt was accented with ostrich feathers at the seams giving the effect of a sea anemone. Finale looks included a boy girl pairing with an iridescent emerald green men’s tuxedo jacket with Chinese fasteners and skinny pants and matching floor-length evening gown.
The fun, colourful island feel of the middle of the series was cooled and replaced with a more staid and incredibly elegant tone, set with sweeping classical music. Models for Rohitava Banerjee moved slowly down the runway displaying the rich, gold embroidery and construction designs. Inspired by Ottoman armor, the sheer linear geometry of each piece is breathtaking. Scalloped shoulder panels gathered onto themselves like nautilus shells while hip proportions were pointed with sharp edges of silk taffeta folded into three-dimensional forms. Asian influences abounded as each garment looked like a moving piece of origami. Jackets, peplum tops and gowns appeared more like pieces of soft sculpture in a simple palette of navy, black and ruby. Prices were listed.
The collections seen at Nolcha were grouped in compliment to one another. Each collection had a distinct and contrasting aesthetic, leaving onlookers pleased. Having such a well-rounded feast for the eyes was a truly extensive sensory journey.
Photos: Getty Images
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