London Collections: Men – Oliver Spencer A/W 2014 show
For autumn/winter 2014, Oliver Spencer was inspired by London’s ever evolving subcultures, and it showed in his beautifully diverse cast of models made up of a colourful variety of backgrounds and age groups. Did anyone else notice that silver fox (or two) in there? They walked aggressively and with a purpose, but with a smug grin – so effortless, so cool. There’s something about seeing a smile on the runway that just warms our hearts. It’s infectious and really not done enough. Why so serious, guys?
With so many of the shows at LC: M being androgynously driven, blurring gender lines with typically feminine motifs and silhouettes, it was refreshing to see a show that was just a big steaming pile of man. A majority of the models sported some daring facial hair, a phenomenon that seems to be (literally) growing by the minute. There were curled ‘staches and some seriously fluffed bristles, but we all learned that one thing is certain when it comes to facial hair: the more the merrier. John Bradbury of The Specials sprinkled in an extra bit of “man” by drumming a live beat over a track and Alex James of Blur walked the show, just further boosting the downright cool factor of it all.
The collection featured re-worked fabrications, new weaving techniques, and performance fabrics like light-weight nylon. Baggy trousers were rolled up at the bottom, exposing brogues and that wee bit of ankle that drives women wild. Rugged hues of forest greens and navy blended seamlessly with warmer caramel and rust tones. Oliver Spencer’s designs are multi-generational and benefit from both traditional tailoring and a modern fit. After all, it’s what makes Oliver Spencer’s collections so approachable for such a wide variety of men. As the ultimate man, David Gandy said: “He always just gets it right.”
Photos: Krish Nagari
Oliver Spencer is the WGSN Menswear Designer Award Winner. Shop his collections here.