NYFW S/S 2016: round-up
Renowned for its fast-pace and cool, urban crowd, New York is certainly becoming the most coveted fashion week destination, even overtaking Paris in the fashion stakes. The city that never sleeps truly outdid itself this season, or else the designers stepped it up a notch in terms of putting on a show. So much went on, with extravagant shows, last minute invites and an array of political messages embedded in collections that it was difficult to catch our breath. Here is the round-up:
Givenchy kicked the week off with their much anticipated show. Ricardo Tisci kicked up quite a storm when he made the decision to show in New York rather than the usual Paris to mark the opening of the New York Givenchy store. Pre-show speculations of big performances from Kanye and Rihanna were thrashed when Tisci presented the surprisingly contemplative experience in memory of 9/11, choosing to show on the anniversary. The girls swanned through the open air venue, made entirely of recycled materials, in a beautiful monochrome formation. The looks oozed sensuality and internet-fuelled nostalgia, with a strong nineties undercurrent.
Another example of a designer using their voice to touch on more serious subjects was that of Prabal Gurung. Kathmandu-raised Prabal took to his social media networks to beg for support following the terrible earthquake in Nepal earlier this year and has since raised over a million dollars for the cause. His show opened with a nod of thanks to the industry in the form of 30 traditionally dressed monks in prayer. The collection that followed also had its roots set firmly in Nepal with splashes of yellow, orange and gold throughout. A sea of pretty bias-cut flowing gowns waltzed down the runway.
Escapism was the theme across many shows, namely Tommy Hilfiger who invited guests to sit pool-side. He created a tropical paradise complete with a board walk-down which the boho models strutted and a beach shack bar at the side. The Caribbean influence didn’t halt at the decor, the collection was a whirlwind of beach wear, bucket hats in red, green and yellow and bright crochet. Gigi Hadid was the star of the show, with her athletic body, tanned skin and wavy surf style hair being the perfect fit for this seasons Tommy girl.
Also demonstrating how to be beach cool were the girls over at Zimmermann. The collection took the Victoriana trend and put an Aussie beach spin on it and the result was breathtaking. Billowing chiffon blouses came in at the neck with lace detailing and hems dipped seriously low. There were lots of ruffles, pinstripe in pastel blue, beige and cream and obi belts pulling the waists in for a petite shape.
Spain seemed to have inspired collections at both Oscar De La Renta and Proenza Schouler but with two halteringly different effects. The collection was Peter Copping’s second for the house since the unfortunate passing of Oscar De La Renta last year and it certainly reflected respect on Oscar’s design ethos, as well as some new personal flair brought in by Copping. Carnation tones of red, white and blue made for a beautiful set, the dresses with tight tucked in waists were intimately feminine and sultry. Sheer black, lace dresses oozed sexiness and mustard hues bought an extra something special.
The spring collection at Proenza Schouler worked from a strict red, white and black palette and the focus was on the silhouette; subtle sexiness came from exposed shoulders and hints of midriff. Tie details at the waist and neck were common in most of the looks, as was interesting necklines and hems, often asymmetric and flowing. The result was a refreshing, modern take on Spain.
The party of the week was said to be at Alexander Wang who was celebrating his 10th anniversary. It was also the designer’s first collection following the announcement that he and Balenciaga has decided not to renew his contract at the house, following a short three year stint as creative director. After presenting his wearable, street-inspired collection, he opened up the backstage area to reveal pole dancers and performances from Lil Wayne, Tinashe and Ludacris for his all-star after party. Celebrity attendees included The Weeknd, Bella Hadid, Kanye West and Lady Gaga.
Not one to be outdone, Marc Jacobs shut it down at the end of the week with his show Marc Jacobs: One Night Only. There was a marquee, candy, a popcorn machine and drinks fountain at the Ziegfeld. The movie-inspired collection was as bright and bold as you would imagine necessary to outshine such an extravagant venue. The wacky clothes were printed, glittered and embellished to the nines and all following a patriotic red, white and blue theme. Beth Ditto, walked down the catwalk in a side split, floor length white gown, carrying a white fur with a smile on her face. It doesn’t get much more New York than that.