Berthold collection presentation A/W 2016 for LCM

For his third presentation at London Collections: Men, designer Raimund Berthold took inspiration from an artistic source – the performative sculptures of innovative artist, Franz Erhard Walther.

Walther’s work questions the idea of art as a static, unmoving thing, and the grand scale and minimalist structure of his installations have clearly made an impact on Berthold’s own creations. His clothes this season are designed to encase the body in a way that allows it to move freely, exploring the differences between “covering” and “smothering”. In one case, a hand-knitted blanket with sleeves wraps itself around the body, whilst elsewhere crew neck sweaters in rubber or shearling gently enclose the body without restricting it.

The uniforms and life jackets worn by the British army during the war have long had a bearing on Berthold’s designs, and this season those ideas translate as boxy jackets and longer, padded coats with utilitarian detailing.

The occasional shock of bright yellow,the predominant colour in Walther’s largest work, breaks up the uniformity of the all-black looks. In one case, a high-necked yellow sweater is layered beneath a charcoal grey coat, whilst another all-yellow look is offset by the addition of black rubber gloves and ankle boots.

An uncomplicated collection that was effortlessly stylish and irresistible in its simplicity – a definite success for Raymond Berthold.

Grace Cain
Photos: Krish Nagari