London Collections: Men, The Report 0.4

Our final day at LCM was spent perusing the BFC’s Gallery Show Space, held at The Hospital Club, where over 30 designers were given the opportunity to showcase their SS13 collections. It would be impossible to go into detail with regards to all 30 of the undoubtedly talented UK labels, so here is a selection.

Christopher Raeburn is a name that is already on everyone’s lips, and deservedly so. His SS13 collection will only add to this fact. Raeburn is ingenious when it comes to his signature brand of sustainable fashion design. A  Raeburn coat or jacket, made from upcycled military fabrics, is always instantly recognisable as his; he adheres to a successful silhouette of intelligent design and expert craftsmanship. Layering is key, an emerging trend that is a way of dressing that the Americans have long known how to pull off, and at which Raeburn is proving an artful master, especially with his ghost jackets, made from transparent parachutes.

Building upon his now notorious and much heralded AW12 LFW show, Christian Blanken launched his new Man line at London Collections. Based upon Hitchcock’s Marnie reinterpreted in the masculine form, Blanken showed an impressive debut menswear collection that cleaved to his timeless, minimalist aesthetic. Outerwear was particularly strong; an amazing leather bomber jacket with an asymmetrical zip, alongside a sequined hooded top, slim tanks and swimwear, and elegant suiting and shirts. The exotic skinned accessories line designed by Lee Miller to complement the collection was an excellent touch; a hint of outrageous luxury for the refined man who likes to flaunt his means in subtle ways.

Special mentions also go to the darkly modernist Berthold, and the colourfully classic Baartman’s Siegel – both two very well thought and executed collections for SS13.

London Collections: Men did what it set out to do: firmly place British menswear design on an international pedestal where it rightfully belongs. British menswear has been duly wanting for its own platform for some time now. London is a major player in the world of men’s fashion and it grows stronger, and its influence bigger, with every passing season. 

Congratulations to the British Fashion Council, London Collections and all the designers involved for a resounding success that has had the whole world watching. We look forward to many, many more men’s weeks to come.

Ian Michael Turner

Photos: Marco Carboni