LFW – Marques’Almeida A/W 2013 collection

Marques’Almeida decided to take a leap of faith and try big this year. The Spanish couple behind the brand explore eveningwear for the first time, and have chosen the second day of London Fashion Week to test their new products. 

Although it may look like a minor show, the Spanish brand is one of the most promising names at London Fashion Week, as they have been awarded NEWGEN sponsorship from the British Fashion Council. 

If there was some kind of street ball, the participants would definitely pick Marques’Almeida to dress them for the occasion. 

The duo looks up to British fashion in the 70s. It’s difficult not to notice certain affinities with Vivienne Westwood, with a hint of the American street fashion tradition. 

The first outfits are all about jeans, in the look and in the colour, but the two designers have re-invented the fabric and the fake-shabby-style. The result of this dialogue with the past is a juxtaposition of shades of blue, and of the weight of the fabrics used to achieve the result. There is also a nice contrast between the brightness of the silk and the opacity of heavier materials. 

In the new collection there is also space for neutral colours and bright colours; in the latter, orange is the way. Red is not missed and the dresses, particularly, are softened by the presence of a white top or a veiled shirt. 

Suits are built to emphasise the contrast between red and blue, and long, stretched jeans with sneakers and high heels. The leather jackets stand out as they are composed by a couple of different shapes and colours, unusually matched. 

Besides suits, there is space for large, soft skirts and dresses that, although are far from the classical tradition of dress, don’t disappoint. Instead, they intrigue and tickle. 

Monica Guerrasio

Photos: Filippo L’Astorina