London Collections: Men – Martine Rose S/S 2014
Martine Rose’s second season collaborating with Ligne Roset, luxury French furniture and decorative accessories brand, has led her to explore interior space, as well as the way our ideas and style become reflected in these personal places.
This theme not only underpins the collection itself, it also influenced its presentation in the way the static show mirrored the styles on show at this year’s London Collections: Men.
Rose presented her creations on rails within a lounge scene ornamented with several vintage chairs, bookshelves and a central revolving platform. It featured a model in high-waisted, baggy white flares, intermittently donning items of clothing from the rails. He sported a blonde wig and sparkly makeup, which emphasised the juxtaposition of the distinctly feminine detailing on the male garments within the collection.
The cut out panels that are framed with lace trim to represent windows, feature heavily on jackets and jumpers, highlighting the importance of windows and light within our interior spaces. A trainer displayed on a revolving platform depicted the collection’s focus on sportswear, as a main feature was a series of t-shirts decorated with chair prints made to resemble posters taped onto the front of the garment. Further sportswear inspired garments included the tapered tracksuit trousers and lace trimmed running shorts.
In contrast to some of Rose’s previous collections, colour is not a defining feature – black and white tones prevail with only subtle dashes of colour here and there. Yet pieces such as the lace trimmed MA-1 bomber jacket and the innovative use of fabrics, as demonstrated by the leather shirts, give a nod to the trademark styles that the designer is known for.
Sarah Louise Renwick