Bumpkin in Chelsea launch party
The newest addition to Bumpkin’s small chain is situated in a townhouse in the heart of Chelsea. On arrival, in the Tuesday evening drizzle, guests were handed pink “John Lennon” glasses, encouraging them to see the event through rose-tinted frames.
Inside, the restaurant has more of a country pub feel than that of a posh SW3 establishment, with dark William Morris-esque wallpapers and a mish-mash of framed floral images. With a glass of Moët in one hand and a mini burger in the other, we walked out to the Secret Garden. With a white-washed terrace, aged terracotta pots and teapots planted with flowers and herbs, it feels quite quaint and verging on twee. The burger was cooked perfectly, medium rare with a soft bun.
With the barbecue in full swing and a live band playing, the atmosphere was fantastic. The next canapé to try was smoked salmon and caviar on a blini; the taste was lovely and citrusy and the presentation was beautiful, however the blini itself was lacking– rather than being soft, it was stale.
More mini burgers were offered around, but unfortunately these were a bit over-cooked, which would have been less noticeable had the first one not been prepared perfectly.
The service was incredibly friendly and very attentive, and overall the décor was aptly complemented by the English Country Garden cocktail. The outside space is very sheltered with extra cover from gazebos and heaters; it feels more like a barbecue in a lovely garden than a Chelsea restaurant.
The rest of the food was served on wooden skewers: herbed chicken, salty, soy vegetables and langoustines. All were tasty and perfectly seasoned, very fresh and clean-tasting, but nothing was particularly exciting. The last dish was a sweet treat, resembling something from a Parisian patisserie: glazed strawberries, set custard on a little pastry base– a lovely end to a summer meal.
Although the barbecue-style food was slightly disappointing it did not seem to be an accurate representation of their actual menu, which does look very good. With its lovely setting and close proximity to South Kensington station, Bumpkin in Chelsea is the perfect garden getaway in the city.
Bumpkin Chelsea: 48/60
Photos: Indrek Galetin
To book a table at Bumpkin Chelsea, 119 Sydney Street London SW3 6NR, call 020 3730 9344 or visit here.