Paternoster Chop House – Game Menu

Apparently easily confused with a similarly named restaurant around the corner, The Paternoster Chop House is an elegant establishment with excellent service. The use of white interiors and flowers adds an element of serenity to the evening alongside the wonderful view of nearby St. Paul’s Cathedral.

Beginning with the limited run Game Menu, expertly crafted gin cocktails are served with recommended side dishes of game. Of the four options offered we sampled the Beetroot Martini and Pigeon on Toast accompaniment alongside the Sipsmith Apple Tart and Game Faggots. The martini was delicious but oddly over-frothed, giving it a large head much like a beer. Unfortunately the toast was overdone and too hard to successfully cut into or chew; the pigeon served on top was thickly sliced and rather hard and rubbery.

In contrast, the Game Faggots were mouth-wateringly juicy and tender, served on a mound of soft and velvety potatoes drizzled in a delicious red wine reduction with the perfect acidity to complement the sweetness of the meat juices.  The paired cocktail was easily drinkable with its notes of apple, ginger and cinnamon intensifying the essence of the game.

From here we delved into the main courses, choosing a Roasted Devonshire Lamb Rump and Poached Salmon with Heritage Potato Salad. The lamb came alone, so a side of Hand Cut Maris Piper Chips were opted for.  Surprisingly the lamb came rarer than expected and was a little more chewy than anticipated as a result. However, the chips were generously sized, the right degree of salty and the perfect shade of golden brown. The salmon was faultless, arriving very tepid, as forewarned by one of our excellent waiters, alongside some deliciously creamy heritage potato salad. Its light, crumbly texture and brilliant, pale pink colour were complemented by the rustic and chunky potato salad.

Our mains were washed down with personal choices: a chardonnay from South Africa and a Spanish albariño. The chardonnay, a splendidly fruity vintage with hints of honey and vanilla, had a welcome touch of spiciness to inject some fusion into the salmon dish. The bold albariño was rounder and sharper with cool citrus flavours that fought to take centre stage with its accompanying dish.  

With a sliver of room left, it was time for some Baked Vanilla Cheesecake and Dark Chocolate Pot, Espresso Cream. The cheesecake was served on a large dollop of bilberry and blueberry compote. Its creamy, light texture was delectable but the compote only served to dissolve the already minuscule biscuit base. Misleading in size, the chocolate pot held an intensely rich dessert with the cream, espresso and dark chocolate all culminating in a tantalising feast for the senses.

We enjoyed a brilliant outside seating area, with excellent surroundings and wonderful service in the form of smiling, helpful and knowledgeable waiters. The Paternoster Chop House is a refined, friendly restaurant that is striving for attention to detail with only a few rough-around-the-edges moments.

Clarissa Waldron
Photos: Luna Ingrassia

Food: 14/20
Drinks: 17/20
Service: 20/20
Paternoster Chop House: 51/60

To book a table at The Paternoster Chop House, Warwick Court, London, EC4M 7DX, call 020 7029 9400 or visit here.