A.F. Vandevorst catwalk show report | PFW S/S 2016

1^st October 2015

Shot by Erol Birsen

Fashion Desk Shot by Erol Birsen

1 October 2015

A.F. Vandervorst’s first collection under the brand name in 1998, won them the Vénus de la Mode at Paris fashion week. This year, at the second of their collections to be shown in Paris this year, the collection was identifiable to the duo. It was bold as An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx, brought a modernistic-meets-oriental-costume element to a show which was dramatic from the onset.

In the courtyard of the Université Paris Descartes however, it was the models making an entrance, on motorcycles nonetheless, creating an all inclusive live experience for the crowd. Helmets, sometimes held, other times worn, took the performance effortlessly onto the catwalk.

Black carried the entire collection down the runway, whilst burgundy was rich and fleeting, blue was seen less often, sometimes mistaken for black, but seen in the abundance of a beautifully full flowing skirt and mixed with a suit-like outfit and print of a dress. Pale pink threw the palette of centre for a single look, whilst white led the garments closer to the finish. Despite the harsh colour palette, used especially in blocks, the collection wasn’t shy of femininity, grace or sophistication. Waistcoats with simplified aiguillette-style toggles over pleated skirts and bare-bodies covered in crochet-knits, encased at the waist by twisted and knotted fullness of fabric, show the delicate side which entwined with drama.

Military, motorcycles and Oriental dress was ever-present in some form and something reminiscent of a Maison Margiela mask, but this was merely a fashionable take on the standard helmet-liner. A collection not missing any intricacies with the detail of pleating, twisting, shaping and fabric manipulation. A plethora of fabrics were worked together in both contrasting and complimenting shape, embellishment and structure. The elements of the collection were essentially wearable, whilst the luxury of ready-to-wear was still habitual to the show.