The Upcoming
  • Cinema & Tv
    • Movie reviews
    • Film festivals
      • Berlin
      • Tribeca
      • Sundance London
      • Cannes
      • Locarno
      • Venice
      • London
      • Toronto
    • Show reviews
  • Music
    • Live music
  • Food & Drinks
    • News & Features
    • Restaurant & bar reviews
    • Interviews & Recipes
  • Theatre
  • Art
  • Travel & Lifestyle
  • Literature
  • Fashion & Beauty
    • Accessories
    • Beauty
    • News & Features
    • Shopping & Trends
    • Tips & How-tos
    • Fashion weeks
      • London Fashion Week
      • London Fashion Week Men’s
      • New York Fashion Week
      • Milan Fashion Week
      • Paris Fashion Week
      • Haute Couture
  • Join us
    • Editorial unit
    • Our writers
    • Join the team
    • Join the mailing list
    • Support us
    • Contact us
  • Competitions
  • Facebook

  • Twitter

  • Instagram

  • YouTube

  • RSS

London Collections Men AW16

Pieter collection presentation A/W 2016 for LCM

Pieter collection presentation A/W 2016 for LCM
10 January 2016
Grace Cain
Avatar
Grace Cain
10 January 2016

Fashion week

Pieter

AW16 collection


Social links

Twitter

For designer Sebastiaan Pieter, this season began with a photograph. Taken in 1979, Robert Mapplethorpe’s Bryan Ridley and Lyle Heeter depicts two men in a questionably decorated, yet unremarkable, living room. Both are dressed entirely in leather – one man stands, holding the end of a chain that is connected to the leather collar around the neck of the other man, who sits in a standard armchair.  

Embed from Getty Images

It is the interplay between the conventional and the subversive epitomised by this photograph that serves as the basis for Pieter’s collection. This is an idea most obviously communicated through the stark contrasts of light and shade that inform the colour palette. The dark grey and black outerwear offsets the white and cream shirts, with pops of scarlet and accents of burgundy and dark green lifting the monochrome base.

Such a striking palette only seemed to elevate the impact of Pieter’s beautifully sculptural designs. The outerwear was a particular highlight, the structured bomber jackets and neatly tailored overcoats pairing perfectly with the slim-leg trousers and classic jerseys. Everything was irresistibly sleek and well-constructed, finding the perfect balance between good old-fashioned tailoring and contemporary activewear.   

Embed from Getty Images

All of this was seamlessly infused with references to gay culture, as in the case of the monochrome “HH” t-shirts, and in a scarlet sweater boldly emblazoned with the word “CRUISE”.

An abundance of zips and pockets provide the only other details, aside from leather straps that wrapped tightly around the arms of many of the sweaters or jackets – a clear reference to the chains and collar in Mapplethorpe’s photograph.

Embed from Getty Images

Indeed, this Japanese leather, juxtaposed as it was with cotton poplin and Italian wool flannel, was in itself a nod to Mapplethorpe’s own distinctive clothing style. A complex collection that managed to feel effortless; and that’s the best combination of all.

Grace Cain

Related Itemslcm aw 2016London Collections: Menpieter autumn/winter 2016

More in London Collections Men AW16

Misa Harada spring/summer 2021 collection presentation for LFW

Fashion Week Team
Read More

PRONOUNCE spring/summer 2021 collection catwalk show for LFW

Fashion Week Team
Read More

Paria Farzaneh spring/summer 2021 collection catwalk show for LFW

Fashion Week Team
Read More

Art School spring/summer 2021 collection catwalk show for LFW

Fashion Week Team
Read More

April & Alex spring/summer 2021 collection presentation for LFW

Fashion Week Team
Read More

Apujan spring/summer 2021 collection catwalk show for LFW

Fashion Week Team
Read More

Eudon Choi spring/summer 2021 collection presentation for LFW

Fashion Week Team
Read More

Mark Fast spring/summer 2021 collection catwalk show for LFW

Fashion Week Team
Read More

Harem spring/summer 2021 collection presentation for LFW

Fashion Week Team
Read More
Scroll for more
Tap

Fashion week

Pieter

AW16 collection


Social links

Twitter

  • Popular

  • Latest

  • TOP PICKS

  • Nope
    ★★★★★
    Movie review
  • Ed Fringe 2022: Hungry
    ★★★★★
    Theatre
  • Eiffel
    ★★★★★
    Movie review
  • Royal Ballet School students return to the stage for post-Covid performances
    Theatre
  • Tips for creating a peaceful home
    Feature of the week
  • Kasabian – The Alchemist’s Euphoria
    ★★★★★
    Album review
  • Rita at Charing Cross Theatre
    ★★★★★
    Theatre
  • Ed Fringe 2022: Hungry
    ★★★★★
    Theatre
  • “Even people who’ve been through adversity might say ‘Well, I wouldn’t change anything because I wouldn’t be who I am'”: Eva Noblezada and Flula Borg on Luck
    Cinema & Tv
  • “Film offers a way of looking at the past, the present and the future simultaneously. That’s its wonder”: Sarah Beddington on Fadia’s Tree
    Cinema & Tv
  • Kasabian – The Alchemist’s Euphoria
    ★★★★★
    Album review
  • Rita at Charing Cross Theatre
    ★★★★★
    Theatre
  • “Even people who’ve been through adversity might say ‘Well, I wouldn’t change anything because I wouldn’t be who I am'”: Eva Noblezada and Flula Borg on Luck
    Cinema & Tv
  • Nope
    ★★★★★
    Movie review
  • Five Days at Memorial
    ★★★★★
    apple
The Upcoming
Pages
  • Contact us
  • Join mailing list
  • Join us
  • Our London food map
  • Our writers
  • Support us
  • What, when, why
With the support from:
International driving license

Copyright © 2011-2020 FL Media

Alexander McQueen catwalk show report | LCM A/W 2016
KTZ catwalk show report | LCM A/W 2016