Julien Fournié catwalk show report S/S 2016 for Haute Couture

Colour-blocking glamazons stalk the catwalk in jungle patterns, bold prints and fluorescent colour to the strains of You Only Live Twice. Julien Fournié’s SS16 Haute Couture show is entitled Premier Paradis, creating an arresting island paradise full of Charlie’s Angels – even if their metallic winged crowns are more Asterix the Gaul than Angel Gabriel.

The show has a distinctly 70s feel and is full of bright purples, cantaloupes, magentas and deep navy blues. Deep V necks, cross-body ties and long sleeves pay homage to Diane von Furstenberg’s wrap dress, alongside casual draping and flaring, pussy bows, shirt dresses, cowl necks and more than a hint of disco.

Jersey, lame, sequins and denim are key components, with one jacket combining the last two for an eye-catching, glittering cherry blossom embellishment.

The models’ hair and make-up continue the theme, with flowing, Farrah Fawcett-esque, loose curls (although slightly glossier, smoother and more defined than the angel’s), a rust-tinted lip and half-moons of lightly blended terracotta eyeshadow under their lower lashes.

A strong Caribbean and Eden theme is also prominent, with graphic prints, bright colours and oversized paper flowers for a Carmen Miranda-meets-Club Tropicana aesthetic that leads to what appears to be a macaw perched on a navy-blue pleated Grecian column dress.

The first beautifully displayed gown incorporates this colour scheme and jungle fauna with the calligraphy motif from his last two couture collections, creating a vibrant floral watercolour, paired with six chunky plastic bangles.

Fournié’s new collection is a kaleidoscope of patterns, explosive 3D details and striking colours, but remains beautifully cohesive.

Catherine Phipps