John Galliano autumn/winter 2016 collection catwalk show in Paris

If Bill Gaytten’s mission as creative director of John Galliano is to make the brand more contemporary and relevant, his autumn/winter showing will surely go some way to repositioning the company within the fashion world of 2016.

Using the quintessential Galliano bias-cut silhouette as his starting point, Gaytten juxtaposed the feminine with the masculine (the latter inspired by the military uniforms as depicted by artist Francisco Goya).

Utilitarian outerwear featuring epaulettes and grosgrain trimming was slung over 1930s-inspired silk dresses in shades of pale blue and pink. Elsewhere, these jackets were layered over lace tie-neck blouses teamed with dandyish cropped trousers.

Chantilly and guipure lace dresses felt romantic in pastel pink, white or black, but paired with the contemporary lace-up sneaker boots they took on a fresh, modern feel. The same was true of the floaty chiffon skirts, layered beneath more structured jackets and blouses. Quirky little eccentricities, such as vintage-style newsboy caps and pocket watches, gave the collection a fun tomboyish twist.

The black, strapless ballgown with its rippled surface and dramatic skirt felt more than a little red carpet ready, whilst elsewhere semi-sheer designs with asymmetrically draping shoulders and necklines revealed daring flashes of skin. A creative set of clothes that saw Gaytten strike the elusive balance between eccentric romanticism and viable style.

Grace Cain