John Galliano autumn/winter 2016 collection catwalk show in Paris

If Bill Gaytten’s mission as creative director of John Galliano is to make the brand more contemporary and relevant, his autumn/winter showing will surely go some way to repositioning the company within the fashion world of 2016.

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Using the quintessential Galliano bias-cut silhouette as his starting point, Gaytten juxtaposed the feminine with the masculine (the latter inspired by the military uniforms as depicted by artist Francisco Goya).

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Utilitarian outerwear featuring epaulettes and grosgrain trimming was slung over 1930s-inspired silk dresses in shades of pale blue and pink. Elsewhere, these jackets were layered over lace tie-neck blouses teamed with dandyish cropped trousers.

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Chantilly and guipure lace dresses felt romantic in pastel pink, white or black, but paired with the contemporary lace-up sneaker boots they took on a fresh, modern feel. The same was true of the floaty chiffon skirts, layered beneath more structured jackets and blouses. Quirky little eccentricities, such as vintage-style newsboy caps and pocket watches, gave the collection a fun tomboyish twist.

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The black, strapless ballgown with its rippled surface and dramatic skirt felt more than a little red carpet ready, whilst elsewhere semi-sheer designs with asymmetrically draping shoulders and necklines revealed daring flashes of skin. A creative set of clothes that saw Gaytten strike the elusive balance between eccentric romanticism and viable style.

Grace Cain