London Fashion Week was seemingly taken back to a variety of time periods during the spring/summer 2017 collection showing from Mulberry. Models showcased the style of an everywoman on her daily routine, yielding a simple colour palette of burgundy, navy, olive, powder blue and a surprising interjection of canary yellow in the opening looks.
The pieces themselves however, were nothing but simple. Excessively ruffled necklines and triangular shoulders made effective use of the subdued hues. Gathered bias-cut silks gowns emphasised body lines, with oversized proportions abounding.
Elegant black embellishments offered a contrasting sparkle that allowed for variation without a great deal of visual overkill. A re-invention of the drop waist added an element of the 1920s to a number of suit jackets and dresses.
The purses – not to be left out – matched in a number of dyed leathers and suedes. An interesting new addition was a tote with an oversized drawstring, giving the appearance that the leather was snatched together and gathered like a pouch.
In the middle for the show, pinstripes punctuated the collection, giving a linear masculine energy, with a 1970s London flair, a nod to the brand’s roots. Sequins then burst forth in an array: bright yellow dresses and trenches utilising blues, bright yellows, and silvers.
From the flapper-waisted skirt suits to the pinstripe Carnaby street-inspired pieces to the rather “19th-century American farmer’s wife” ruffled cotton pinafore dresses, Mulberry presented a collection that was anything but static. A dynamic interchange of fabrics and reference periods managed to be cohesive, all tied together in neat leather satchels.
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