New York Fashion Week AW18: Roundup
Every season, New York Fashion Week opens fashion month with some of the most renowned names in the fashion sphere such as Michael Kors and Calvin Klein, setting the tone for forthcoming trends of autumn/winter 2018.
This week saw many goodbyes, hellos and welcome backs to various designers as Victoria Beckham celebrated her last show on the New York calendar, Italian house Bottega Veneta moves state-side and Tom Ford moves to the opening slot. Trends can be highlighted already from just the first week, motifs of power dressing via modern silhouettes, clashed prints, such as leopard prints and florals, defined lines and myriads of tulle permeated collections.
Tom Ford culminated an 80s-inspired collection that collated a glamourous mix of Italian DNA with a nod to the leisure of the Hollywood Hills. Models wore leatherette hairbands and kohl-ringed eyes that complimented leggings and jackets in garish metallic fabrics and ostentatious animal prints.
Ford’s collection seemed to strike a fine balance between the past and the present, echoing the unapologetic female power surge of the 80s with the political polemics of today through a diamanté encrusted “Pussy Power” emblazoned across a handbag. Retro jumpsuits, long-line fur coats and whiffs of zebra and leopard print showcased a self-assured being.
Marc Jacobs took big to bigger on the catwalk. Silhouettes were large, with oversized shoulders, balloon trousers and wide brimmed hats taking over the catwalk. Rich olives and decadent silks demanded control of the runway, completing the bold, layered outfits.
Stuart Vever has transformed Coach back into a brand at the forefront of trends. Continuing the prairie-girl aesthetic for which he has become known, Vever’s contrasted the American west personalities creating a dark romance vibe with shearling, autumnal shades and flowing fabrics.
Michael Kors’ ode to the theatre proved there truly isn’t any business like show business, with his models flooding the catwalk to the sounds of The Sound of Music and invitations representing playbills. Kors added to the spectacle with clashing prints heavily focused around ditsy florals, leopard prints and abundances of checks.
Models sifted their way down a catwalk flooded by popcorn at Raf Simons’ Calvin Klein hybrid of the old and new America. Simons took conventional functional clothing items such as a lumberjack jacket and firefighter jacket and boots out of their traditional roles and transformed them into oversized jackets and slip dresses layered over contrasting textures.
Attendees were shown what the future looks like according to Jeremy Scott. Bubblegum, bondage and alien was the aesthetic with the pastel pink bobs and tights daring you to do anything other than smile. Abstract blocks of colour were Scott’s print of choice with cropped jackets, metallic leggings and velour tracksuits competing for attention.
Beckham created an intimate space for the first show that will mark her 10th anniversary of being in the fashion industry. The audience close range to the models allowed them to see the technical construction of the outfits and the texture of fabrics used. Leopard print was used for the first time alongside muted hues on longline pieces.
For his last on-schedule show, Alexander Wang presented a collected that represented the essence of his brand. Neutral-coloured fabrics branded with the designer’s name were sculpted into tapered trousers that oozed his quintessential sportswear vibe. Tailored jackets complimented spiked stilettos and opaque tights topped by tiny sunglasses that are sure to be seen everywhere.
Oscar de la Renta
Doing what the brand does best, overtly feminine embroidery, colours and florals were bought to the runway. Silhouettes were given a modern twist in an oversized manner, contrasting with billowing fabrics. The motif of bubbles was heavily played upon alongside sheer tulles. The standout piece was a tulle cape/coat that encapsulated the whimsical emotion.
The Italian fashion house moved state side to coincide with the opening of Bottega Veneta’s flagship store. Male and female models cascaded around the runway, resting on furniture from the brands home wear line. Longline coats with blunt lines saturated the collection in varying textures of PVC, silk, tulle and animal print. Mustard yellow was focused heavily within the collection the colours never straying far from complementing it.