Paris Fashion Week AW18: Roundup
Paris, the original fashion capital. Renowned for haute couture, Paris has flourished in a distinctly different nature to its sisters, this home of the historic brands and where fashion is truly seen as an art. The city is the playground for designs new and old and autumn/winter 2018 was no different.
Off-White is one of the brands of the moment, with items selling out instantly and the streetwear inspired pieces being turned over for thousands of pounds while outside the AW18 venue itself a riot escalated.
Entitled West Village, the collection encapsulated the affluent lifestyle of West Village New Yorkers, blurring the boundaries between leisurewear and the Western trend currently infiltrating the trends. Riding inspired, leather thigh-high boots covered the hoofs of models wearing crisp tailored items in blue and white. Even oversized capes maintained a stiff structure, contrasted with bodycon jumpsuits and short shorts.
Maria Grazia Chiuri took us back 60 years to 1968, presenting a collection that truly emulates 2017’s word of the year “youthquake”. Dior captured the revolutionary movements of the 60s, with a catwalk covered in motifs of political signs.
This motif carried over into Chiuri’s designs, with patchwork pieces featuring as the main focus. Boho-hippie-chic was given a contemporary twist from flowing dresses to midi-skirts and oversized capes. Contrast this against tailored jackets and trousersuits, you have the perfect wardrobe for the modern woman.
Is there anything that says more fall more than a forest? Yes, a Chanel forest covered in real leaves and trees in Paris’ Grand Palais.
As always, the Chanel tweed was the centre-piece, but this season the material came in the shape of longline coats with sharp collars and belted waists. The colour palette was distinctly muted, contrasted with bright leather accessories such as long-sleeved gloves and bags. If you’re going to do patterns, make them leaf-inspired and pile your hair on top of your head in a messy bun.
Once again, neutral tones were dominant throughout in keeping with Chloe’s signature flowing, voluptuous designs. High-waisted wide-legged trousers alternated with midi-length skirts and dresses that highlighted the waist.
Knits were a favourite, taking form in dress and jumpers with ruched shoulders and leather belts slung across the hips punctuating. The deepened colour palette and mixture of fluid fabrics combined with the leather hardware and boots emulates a more matured Chloe girl under Natacha Ramsay-Levi.
Showing at the Lourve with a star studded front row including Sophie Turner, Emma Stone and Alicia Vikander, Nicolas Ghesquiere gave a lesson on modern quintessentially French style.
Louis Vuitton jumped on the trend from the other autumn/winter 2018 shows with tailored jackets and coats at the forefront of the collection. Similarly, tailored waists, trousers and mid-length skirts contributed to the modernistic vibe of the brand in recent years. Monochrome colours allowed a base for contrasting sharp stripes of colour, adding to a collection that is relevant when paired with the cult trainers of last season.
Stella McCartney is renowned for being a designer for the modern woman, creating beautiful pieces that are just as much functional as they are fashionable. Fluid skirts and dresses skimmed the air and the ankles of models as they strutted down the catwalk, emulating the fast paced lifestyle of the Stella McCartney woman.
McCartney mixed these high-low elements of everyday life into her clothing. Tailored, practical designs for which McCartney is renowned this season took shape in soft woollen suits. Mixed together with the new Loop trainer and silks and lace mimicked this lifestyle.
The Miu Miu show mixed it up a bit and was opened and closed by actor Elle Fanning, her first catwalk for the brand. Usually an overtly feminine brand, Miu Miu this season took a step back from their usual good girl persona for more of a good girl gone bad with masses of backcombed hair and iconic eyeliner flick.
Wool was used heavily in swaths of scarves wrapped around the necks of models and collars flapped over leather jackets in black and rouge. Oversized jackets were clenched in at the waist, while hemlines were short and heels added a flirty element.
Photo: Kimberley Archer