Mark Fast spring/summer 2020 collection catwalk show for LFW

Mark Fast’s show opened with pulsating uptempo music, the first model walking out in a two-piece green skirt and an off-the-shoulder bodycon set accompanied by long slender heels. This immediately set the tone for the show, which had a very loose and generic “jungle” theme, inspired by Fast reading “his” National Geographic collection. The colours of the Amazon manifested themselves through python-skin prints, featured consistently throughout the clothes and shoes.

There was a clear reach for more wearable pieces this season, a stark contrast with the signature crochet and knitted Lycra dresses that garnered Fast attention earlier in his career. These pieces felt slightly stale, with simple blazers and tracksuits emblazoned with graffiti patches and standardised prints. A small number of menswear looks were thrown in the mix, which felt unnecessary and which lacked any particular identity.

The redeeming features appeared in the long crocheted dresses with large volume. Their beautiful, dynamic movement and fluffy, light airiness were reminiscent of the youthful femininity and tight cuts that put the designer in the spotlight when his career started in the naughties. Here, Fast displayed the strong influence of the Amazonian birds of paradise on his collection, flaunting them on the runway. In these moments, the designer’s craftsmanship appeared elegant and shone through in an otherwise gaudy display of bodycon mini skirts, laced high-heeled stilettos and neon snakeskin prints.

Fast’s imaging of a party in the jungle often felt outdated and, though he credits his work as a testament to the beauty of the burning Amazon many miles away, in need of a modern shake-up.

Mary-Catherine Harvey
Photos: Huw Jenkins