Light & Shadow x Esa Liang x Punk Rave spring/summer 2020 collection catwalk show for LFW

In an intriguing collaboration, three labels – Punk Rave, Esa Liang, and Light & Shadow – presented their collections on the same catwalk at Victoria House during London Fashion Week. Full of contrasts and surprising similarities, this show featured a variety of styles, moods and genres.

First up was Punk Rave, whose collection began with a series of white wedding-style gowns. This was surprising for a brand with punk in its name, but metallic accessories created a cyborg-like ambience. One model rocked an exaggerated wedding-cake-shaped, white gown with an exposed wire frame on the outside; another wore a metal spine draped over her shoulder; yet another wore metallic knee-pads and a shiny mouthpiece. As the pieces changed from white, to white and black, to pure black, the robotic touches remained in an almost Jetsonian interpretation of the present.

Punk Rave was followed by Light and Shadow, which featured three up-and-coming designers’ short collections. While all three were full of movement and experimentation, each designer’s style was distinctive and memorable. One featured different cuts and orientations of the same two patterns; before that was a blue-and green, water-inspired set. The other collection featured a particularly compelling wearable dress with a red top and a striped grey-and-white halter and skirt.

Esa Liang closed the show with a beautiful collection, which showcased varied textures in red, black and silver. One standout look involved a matte-black tophat, a silver, form-fitting top and a cascading black skirt with endless ruffles. Another incorporated a silver suit of glittery trousers and a metallic coat. Esa Liang expertly married fragility and power in this unforgettable collection.

Despite the varied designs, the shiny skin and slicked, wet hair remained constants across the three brands. The concatenation of patterns, color palettes and styles made for a fascinating and captivating show.

Laura Boyle
Photos: Maria Dyshkant