Townsend at Whitechapel Gallery: “A calm oasis that made me forget where I was for a moment”
Whitechapel High Street is a bustling and diverse hub of street markets, curry houses and late night bars. Right in the midst of this lies Townsend, a modern British dining room situated in the iconic Whitechapel Gallery. The restaurant is headed up by Nick Gilkinson (previously of Anglo and the Garden Café) and focuses on “creatively constructed seasonal dishes”.
After dodging the latest Jack the Ripper tour that was departing from outside the gallery, I ducked inside the dining room and was instantly transported to a lofty interior boasting huge windows and fitted out with soft lighting and understated furnishings. Despite its historic East End setting, it still managed to create an intimate and cosy atmosphere and was a calm oasis that made me forget where I was for a moment.
The menu changes on a daily basis and is carefully crafted to reflect the best of British produce. To start we had the focaccia that felt lighter than air and whipped butter which we greedily slathered on in generous helpings.
Next up was the Red Leicester Croquettes with Pickled Walnut. The croquette itself was mild and creamy with an unmistakable flavour of red Leicester coming through. The pickled walnut brought everything together, adding rich and earthy tones.
Then we sampled the Smoked Mackerel Scone with Horseradish. The scone was light and buttery and topped with the creamy and smokey fish – this was a great play on textures and proved to be a comforting plate with familiar British flavours.
The Celeriac Salad with Hazelnuts, Berkswell and Black Truffle was an instant hit and provided all the sweetness and warmth of a comforting pasta dish despite being presented in a healthier form.
The Salad of Pickled Squash, Graceburn and Walnuts that followed was an explosion of colour, full of bold and tart tantalising flavours, and made for a refreshing and cleansing course.
We were also served the Cornish Cod with Girolles and Sweetcorn – a hearty plate of delicate fish cooked in a sumptuous sauce with sweet and peppery flavours.
For dessert, we tried the Plum and Almond Tart with Whipped Yoghurt that boasted a smooth nutty base punctuated with sharp and tangy fruit.
Our second sweet helping was the 66% Chocolate with Coffee Cream and Buckwheat, which was surprisingly airy, with a feather-light whipped consistency and slightly bitter aftertaste.
The dishes were all accompanied by a bottle of Dominio de Punctum, Pomelado Orange. The orange wine is made from Sauvignon Blanc and spends up to 14 days on the skins, giving it a pale amber colour and aromatic flavour.
Townsend certainly delivered on seasonal plates that were constructed with creative flair and robust British produce. Although menu takes on a no frills approach, what you’re left with is beautifully honest food that allows the ingredients to speak volumes.
Alex Julie Woods
Photos: Cristiana Ferrauti
To book a table at Townsend at Whitechapel Gallery, 77-82 Whitechapel High Street London E1 7QX, call 020 7522 7896 or visit their website here.
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