Pavyllon London in Mayfair: “The details, needless to say, are meticulously attended to”

As Hyde Park continues to establish itself as a central hub for luxury hotels, the Four Seasons has enhanced its reputation for high-end French cuisine with the opening of Pavyllon at their Park Lane property, chef Yannick Alléno’s first London restaurant. The hotel’s grandiose entrance gives way to the dining room’s resplendent aquamarine tones. The large windows allow light rays to gently brighten the beige and turquoise interior, surrounding guests in a tranquil atmosphere. It feels somewhat impolite to even speak at a normal volume, let alone raising one’s voice to louder tones. The space is flanked on the right-hand side, along its entire length, by a long chef’s table that seats over 20 guests.

The view from the stool over the orderly and concerted kitchen, led by head chef Benjamin Ferra Y Castell, offers a melodious backdrop. As for the menu, there is an ample à la carte selection, and then two tasting options: Immersive Mayfair (four or six courses) and the Pavyllon Experience (a six-step journey with the choice of classic or prestige wine pairing). However, for the lunch service, there’s a quicker and affordable alternative: Lunch in 55’ (five courses in 55 minutes for £55.50), which we are here to try.

Alléno’s mastery in vacuum-cooking and extraction methods is immediately on showcase: a delicate milk mousse infused with salmon extraction is garnished with smoked salmon, pickled cucumber and a sprinkle of dill. The fresh dollop, which has a pleasant – not overwhelming – fish flavour, is to be savoured with accompanying warm blinis. Paired with a glass of champagne Maxime Blin Nos Moments Carte Blanche, is sublime. Straying from temperature experimentation, the French Fish Pie – or rather, its reinterpretation – plays on textures. Forget everything else except for that mouth-filling contentment characteristic of the British staple: introduced a few months ago, this butter-rich version features a fish mousse encased in a slender, crisp bread crust, with the so assembled portion resting on a brown butter broth. The Comté Cheese Soufflé is a distinct Alléno hallmark: the airy mound is steamed in the oven and dusted with grated cheddar and buckwheat. The star ingredient shifts seasonally, and this time it’s a celeriac extraction, which complements rather than overpowers the delectable cheese flavour. The comfort of pasta is up next with Lobster Linguine, where the bisque sauce is the guest of honour. The accompanying wine, Vadiaperti Greco di Tufo, is chosen for its refreshing minerality and herbaceous qualities.

Cheese is back on the table as an assortment of selected slices hailing from both France and the UK, served with salad and vinaigrette, just before the nuanced vanilla cloud makes its appearance. The dessert’s roasted notes are more pronounced than the sweetness of the flower, sitting on a bed of smooth chocolate namelaka and finished with hazelnut ice cream and dry coffee tuile. The Franz Haas Moscato Rosa 2021, with its hints of cinnamon and cloves and gentle tannins, is a pleasurable sipping, matching well with the cream.

The subdued ambience lures into a sophisticated setting, where service is impeccably precise and the details, needless to say, are meticulously attended to. Techniques are the protagonist, a display of expertise in transforming ingredients from the ordinary to the elevated. While it may not deliver groundbreaking originality, the lunch service caters a charming experience in contemporary French fine dining.

Cristiana Ferrauti
Photos: Cristiana Ferrauti

To book a table at Pavyllon London, Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane London W1J 7DR, call 020 7319 5200 or visit their website here.