The Loch & The Tyne by Adam Handling in Old Windsor
A long journey deserves a great meal. And that’s what happened (spoiler) at The Loch & The Tyne. It was a rainy and grey day when we visited the gastropub with rooms opened by Adam Handling in 2021. Spells of a proper storm were interspersed with moments of spring blue sky. We saw all kinds of weather changes en route, considering the trip via public transport to Old Windsor can take some time. Once we arrived at the entrance of the establishment, we breathed a sigh of relief. The facade, reminiscent of an old British cottage, anticipates a warmly rustic chic atmosphere inside.
The interior design follows that of the other venues by the Scottish-born chef: contemporary edgy artwork, a predilection for waxed wood, dried flowers as centrepieces and lining the walls. The armchairs upholstered in faded tartan and leather are a plus, as is the unique stoneware. The dining room, distanced by the beer counter, is full to capacity with first-time visitors and regulars alike. Still, it exudes relaxed vibes.
The cuisine bears the signature of Handling, obviously recognisable in his classic dishes Mother and the moreish Cheese Doughnuts. However, the menu is permeated by the creativity and passion of co-proprietors Steven Kerr and Jonny McNeil.
Handling’s cuisine focuses on the flavour profile of the ingredients as they are, carefully crafted but subjected to the least amount of elaboration. One can go for a tasting menu, where portions are halved but a longer set selection of courses is on offer. Alternatively, the à la carte allows one to enjoy more generous servings and choose according to the appetite and mood. In our case, for example, the wintry morning demanded a comforting and delicious soup of the day, which was carrot-based, smooth and earthy. The other pick from the small plates section was the Haggis Scotch Egg, an opulent take on the traditional recipe, with additional tanginess from the tartare sauce. This first round was anticipated by a few snacks, among which the aforementioned Cheese Doughnuts – with an overloaded dusting of grated parmesan, the Bread with Chicken Butter, and the Black Pudding and Apple Bon Bons which consists of five small meaty bites – a must-try!
The venison is a highlight from the large plates: tenderly cooked, virtually fat free, laid on fermented turnip and topped by a few lingonberries. It’s the perfect gourmet pick, and fantastic with the pairing of a Nebbiolo, the 2020 Nadia Curto from Le Langhe. The corn-fed Chicken is another tasty option, and, although some more of the asparagus and wild garlic could have enriched the dish, any of the green sides can provide the necessary vegetable intake. Classics such as Fish and Chips, Pie of the Day and Mac and Cheese, are also part of the menu, and, as we hear, the go-to choices of returning guests.
We finished off with a Blackberry Pavlova, dainty at first sight with a little purple tinge and flowers. Cracking the delicate meringue shell, there was a gratifying basil and blackberry jam to scoop up to the last drop.
With access to excellent producers, rooms available upstairs for a prolonged stay, and a food menu that branches off into elevated pub offerings, The Loch & The Tyne offers a complete experience that takes one back to a relaxed and relishing mode of eating out. A recently opened sister gastropub, The Tartan Fox in Cornwall, is a testament to the team’s success.
Cristiana Ferrauti
Photos: Cristiana Ferrauti
To book a table at The Loch & The Tyne by Adam Handling, 10 Crimp Hill Old Windsor Berkshire SL4 2QY, call 01753 851470 or visit their website here.
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