Phoebe English spring/summer 2017 collection presentation | LFW

Phoebe English is known for putting process at the heart of her work. The daughter of artist parents, English places utmost respect on materials and “lost, forgotten or little-used techniques.” In a highly conceptual presentation, inspired perhaps by Western astrology, English showcases a series of incredible (and incredibly delicate) pieces formed by what she calls “heroic draping”. 

The planning gone into each piece is extreme. A model sits atop a white block knotting and unknotting metres and metres of canvas; presumably she is the “strangler” hinted at in the show notes. She wears a white long-sleeved top comprising infinite overlapping fabric segments, all knotted together to create the perfect fit. Similarly, an archer stands next to her wearing a segmented and knotted bralette underneath a one-sleeved dress, which knots to one side of the waist like a ballet dancer’s cardigan. The result of such precision and execution is a uniquely feminine look. Next is the “enquirer”. This paint-smeared model, all back-combed hair and ink-stained fingers, wears a sheer, asymmetric cardigan of sorts. The upper edges are ragged and unfinished – a deliberate move on English’s part, no doubt to draw a contrast with the delicately finished lower hemline that is typical of her usual attention to detail. On the other side of the room is a widow-esque figure, in an intricately gathered black empire line dress and sheer veil. On closer inspection, the dress is layered, an effect created by the number of panels fused together – as with the knotting strangler, the archer and the “enquirer”. The meaning behind the arrangement may not be clear, but English’s purpose is: her SS17 collection is a testament to fine design work and unusual methods.

Katie Dean
Photos: Krisztian Pinter

For further information about Phoebe English visit here.