LFW – Ubuntu International Project AW 2012 collection

The opening for the Ubuntu International Project at Freemason’s Hall became enthralled with the first showcase by Clinton Lotter, that revealed a collection of two pieces, velour midi dresses and pencil skirts. The season’s pieces make reference towards Ndebele South African tribes combined with Art Deco patterns from Europe. Models displaying fingertips dipped in various colours of dye displayed dogtooth style patterns in blue and black, all in one suits and draped back dresses. Pieces were decorated with burgundy crocodile skin centre bands and laser cut material cut outs. Hair featured front braiding completed with a backcombed maine pony tail. Make up was left simple and straightforward, with black lined eyes, extended eyelashes and deep red lipsticks.

The Franki Wild approach to the A/W collection focused upon statement jewellery pieces. Each model suitably illustrated a black all in one jumpsuit and were then brought to life by unbelievable declaration pieces. Over the shoulder pieces which draped down the body were repetitive throughout the designs. A stunning spider web design featured a focal neck piece and red spiders climbing up the body and a rather unusual design of golf balls which had been halved and given added sparkle really wowed the audience.

Third saw Jose Hendo’s approach to contemporary design. The use of eco fabrics to create one off pieces produced huge draping features, circular arm pieces and large additional pocket detailing. Inspired by the world around us as well as an emphasis upon reusing materials and supporting ethical trading, a tribal approach was most certainly felt.

Unbuntu then moved into a powerful range of t-shirts from Empower Africa First. Plain black tees with bold and dominate phrases such as ‘TRADE NOT AID’, ‘AFRO ECO’ AND ‘AFRICAN COTTON CROP 2 SHOP’ were displayed making a influential and powerful mark upon the audience.

For Focus Nigeria, Ayo Van Elma displayed a totally new and fascinating design approach. Each model wore a Aso Oke style hat with an incense stick prevailing from the top. Inspiration being taken from the beauty of afrocentric fabrics, Ayo Van Elma is aiming to create styles which are liberal and open minded.

Studio 24 displayed a host of cargo pants and tie up shirts, each symbolising a red, white and blue target on the back. Black and white checks were matched with trousers featuring panels of similar prints and played a whole host of military style shirts which had been made girly and quirky. House J’ola finished the presentation with bold pink patterns, bold statement prints, bright orange pieces and diamante style detailing.

Kellie Griffiths

Photos: Marco Carboni