The Upcoming
  • Culture
    • Art
    • Cinema
      • Movie reviews
      • Film festivals
    • Food & Drinks
      • News & Features
      • Restaurant & bar reviews
      • Interviews & Recipes
    • Literature
    • Music
      • Live music
    • Theatre
    • Shows & On demand
  • Fashion & Lifestyle
    • Accessories
    • Beauty
    • News & Features
    • Shopping & Trends
    • Tips & How-tos
    • Fashion weeks
  • What’s On
    • Art exhibitions
    • Theatre shows
  • Tickets
  • Join us
    • Editorial unit
    • Our writers
    • Join the team
    • Join the mailing list
    • Support us
    • Contact us
  • Interviews
  • Competitions
  • Special events
    • Film festivals
      • Berlin
      • Tribeca
      • Sundance London
      • Cannes
      • Locarno
      • Venice
      • London
      • Toronto
    • Fashion weeks
      • London Fashion Week
      • New York Fashion Week
      • Milan Fashion Week
      • Paris Fashion Week
      • Haute Couture
      • London Fashion Week Men’s
  • Facebook

  • Twitter

  • Instagram

  • YouTube

  • RSS

CultureFood & DrinksRestaurant & bar reviews

Andina

Andina | Restaurant review
8 February 2014
Niki Shakallis
Niki Shakallis
Avatar
Niki Shakallis
8 February 2014

An expedition to the Andes, in search of an authentic Peruvian breakfast, was made less arduous by a visit to Shoreditch. There, in the bosom of East London, is a Peruvian escape where hearty appetites are nourished with first class care: Andina. The all-day restaurant is the second opening from Martin Morales, the former iTunes executive-turned-cook and restaurateur.

Morales launched Ceviche in Soho, in 2012, showcasing critically acclaimed pickled dishes inspired by his Peruvian roots. Andina ventures beyond this remit to introduce a super-food-rich menu inspired by the Andes.

The rustic décor is sufficiently stylized to attract fashion-conscious locals: wood, tiling, exposed beams and brickwork, coloured cords, and low hanging lights. Together, they create an embracing, informal ethos, emphasised by the presentation of “help yourself” cutlery within coloured glasses on each table.

A basement bar specialises in Pisco (a Peruvian grape spirit available in homemade flavours) whilst the ground floor houses an open-plan kitchen and juice bar. There’s also a private room for hire, decorated with some of the vintage records Morales has licensed for his Peruvian music label.

The breakfast menu is liquid-heavy: six food dishes and a raft of juice blends, smoothies, Fuerza (Peruvian liquid breakfasts), Hot Emoliente (a healthy Andean drink that can be flavoured with cinnamon or mint), Peruvian teas and coffees.

We began with a moreish Lengua De Suegra – two layers of Peruvian filo pastry sandwiched with dulce de leche (caramel). Ideal for anyone with a sweet tooth, but it lacked the portability and bulk of European equivalents and seemed unlikely to fuel a diner until lunchtime.

Peruvian Porridge was more substantial: an outstanding concoction of quinoa, amaranth, orange zest and fresh fruits. The creamy blend was as comforting as it was delicious, and far lighter than porridge oats. We detected notes of cinnamon and aniseed in each mouthful and syrups of purple maize and goldenberry (physalis) added sweetness.

Also impressive was a Pig Butty, a hearty street food dish of tender, crispy-edged pork belly in a soft, sourdough bun. A wonderful ketchup of sweet potato completed the sandwich, alongside a portion of Salsa Criolla (a breath-hijacking garnish of raw red onion, tomato and coriander). The dangerous salsa also arrived with our order of Tamalito, a delicately flavoured and slightly underwhelming coriander dumpling made from quinoa, stuffed with queso fresco cheese. Both dishes are also available for lunch.

Sipping tasty, wholesome smoothies throughout our meal – a banana based Saramama and avocado-packed Green Vayeho – it felt good to start the day with something more imaginative than tea and toast. However, no amount of healthy food could substitute the kick of caffeine: Andina’s robust yet smooth house blend of Peruvian, Costa Rican and Tanzanian coffee kindly obliged.

Andina provided a fantastic break from routine, successfully invigorating and reinventing the most mundane and hurried meal of the day. We enjoyed an exotic, guilt-free and delicious breakfast experience with all the flavours of Peru and none of the holiday costs!

Food: 14/20
Drinks: 20/20
Service: 20/20
Andina: 54/60

Niki Shakallis
Photos: Andrei Grosu

To book a table at Andina, 1 Redchurch Street, London, E2 7DJ, call 0207 920 6499 or visit here.

Related Itemsreview

More in Food & Drinks

Three alternative New Year’s Eve menus

Rosamund Kelby
Read More

Sommelier Kelvin McCabe on where to buy good wine to celebrate (and enjoy) 2021

Filippo L'Astorina, the Editor
Read More

Perfect Christmas recipe: Hide Christmas Tree by Ollie Dabbous

The editorial unit
Read More

Ember Snacks to launch three new charcuterie snacks in January

The editorial unit
Read More

Avoid supermarket stress with a last-minute Christmas veg box delivery from Nature’s Choice

The editorial unit
Read More

Ten great Christmas meal kits and takeaway services

The editorial unit
Read More

Christmas present ideas for foodies

The editorial unit
Read More

Spotlight: Oja app founder Mariam Jimoh on bringing local world foods to your doorstep

Lilly Subbotin
Read More

Recreate brunch at home with Mei Mei’s delicious south-east Asian cuisine

The editorial unit
Read More
Scroll for more
Tap
  • Popular

  • Latest

  • TOP PICKS

  • Outside the Wire
    ★★★★★
    Cinema
  • A Livestream with David Bedella at Crazy Coqs Online
    ★★★★★
    Theatre
  • Undercover at Morpheus Show Online
    ★★★★★
    Theatre
  • Blithe Spirit
    ★★★★★
    Cinema
  • You Me at Six – Suckapunch
    ★★★★★
    Album review
  • WandaVision: Marvel’s charming sitcom proves an astounding success
    ★★★★★
    Cinema
  • Sleaford Mods – Spare Ribs
    ★★★★★
    Album review
  • The Queen’s Gambit: A chess story that’s not about the moves but the motives
    ★★★★★
    Cinema
  • Away
    ★★★★★
    Cinema
  • Imperial Blue
    ★★★★★
    Movie review
  • WandaVision: Marvel’s charming sitcom proves an astounding success
    ★★★★★
    Cinema
  • The Queen’s Gambit: A chess story that’s not about the moves but the motives
    ★★★★★
    Cinema
  • Undercover at Morpheus Show Online
    ★★★★★
    Theatre
  • Ten short literary collections to get you back into reading
    Literature
  • Mayor
    ★★★★★
    Cinema
The Upcoming
Pages
  • Contact us
  • Join mailing list
  • Join us
  • Our London food map
  • Our writers
  • Support us
  • What, when, why

Copyright © 2011-2020 FL Media

John Newman at Shepherd’s Bush Empire | Live review
Original recipe of the week: Bramley Apple and Gruyère Buns