Eudon Choi catwalk show report | LFW S/S 2016

Fashion model Erin O’Connor looked on from the front row, alongside Hugo Taylor, Rosie Fortescue and Oliver Proudlock, interested to see what contemporary designer Eudon Choi had proposed for spring/summer 2016. The crowd was full-to-bursting in the Brewer Street Car Park, which is the latest venue for London Fashion Week. This sentiment for a new beginning oscillated with the historical, perhaps discordantly, with the inspiration chosen by Choi.

 

This former Royal College of Art student presented a master class in tailoring, blurring the lines between masculine form using feminine elements, though with an unusually magical theme. Victoriana literary sources were central, and in particular references to writer Oscar Wilde and Victorian artist John Anster Christian Fitzgerald (nicknamed “Fairy Fitzgerald”). Choi scattered this charmed, dreamlike mood over the garments, which appeared as a collection of beautifully deconstructed nightshirts and gentlemen’s silk robes, for women.

Pleating followed almost skeletal structures along cool, stone grey tailored pieces, and loosely draped dresses were cinched at the back, arm and hem. Deconstructed capes, asymmetric shirting and drawstrings, which were visible on soft white shirting added a sculptural dimension and volume to the pieces.

Colours were also otherworldly, with sky blue, navy satin georgette, incredibly subtle aqua, almost canvas bag-like beiges and white cotton shirting, offset with jacquards and broderie anglaise for evening wear. A collaboration with eyewear specialists Cutler and Gross added to the dark undertones of the collection creating an incredibly easy-to-wear and modern vibe, together with the Victoriana vision.

This collection will appeal to a contemporary, young and modern wearer through its charmed and magical influences, advocating Choi’s ideology for a mystical feeling within the pieces.

Victoria Geaney
Photos: Krisztian Pinter