Belgrade Fashion Week Showcase catwalk show report S/S 2016 for LFW

Not really knowing what to expect, I took my seat at the Belgrade Fashion Week Showcase in Holborn’s Freemasons’ Hall with equal measures of excitement and trepidation.  Showing as part of Fashion Scout, seasoned launchpad of emerging talent such as Peter Pilotto, Eudon Choi, Felder Felder and William Tempest, as well as continual organisers of Graduate Fashion Week, the Serbian born or based designers showcase was certainly not to be missed.

First onto the catwalk, Ana Ljubinkovic showed fantastical Alice-in-Wonderland meets naturalistic tapestries of swans, windmills, deer and kittens, tassels adorning sculptural dresses, forming extended curved shoulders and magnified hourglass hips.  Gold glittered faces and necks, and delicate Tower of Pisa-esque buns jauntily clung to models heads, each topped with a china figurine of a dog.  LED gum shields flashed in models’ mouths and pink and gold-foiled leathers framed the body with cage-like structures.  It was a collection of over-the-top fabulousness in sky-high blue heels for the doll with ‘tude.

Up next, Vlada Savic brought clean, Piet Mondrian modernism and lines to the fore, in primary reds, blues and yellows set against a monochromatic palette.  Vertical strips of blue peeked out from the inner and outer trouser seams and pleating detail on full-length skirts, which were draped over tailored, wide-fit trousers, added further artistry to the layered designs.  Neoprene, expertly cut, held the oversized sculptural tops and dresses well.

Budislava Kekovic‘s space sirens marched along with perspex acrylic box sunglasses. These architectural aliens walked to intergalactic Martian music with fittingly out of sync pockets and linear mismatched textures, draped in layers on dresses.  Geometric architecture, simple linear forms and Japanese culture were all cited as inspiration for Kekovic, in the show notes however to me it was the extra-terrestrial that provided the key to Spring/Summer 2016 at Budislava.

The most well received designer was certainly London-based Serbian designer George Styler. ‘Your make-up is terrible’ blasted over the speakers as gold, silver and turquoise glitter faced models in prom queen crowns and rose festooned hair showed Styler’s intricate knitwear pieces.  Motifs included wolves howling, more kittens and the Mona Lisa emblazoned onto coral, aqua, burnt orange and neon pink knitted leotards with puffed Victorian sleeves, pleated midi skirts and bomber jackets.  As the Autumn/Winter 2014 One to Watch winner at Fashion Scout, I think we will be seeing a lot more of this brightest of talents.

Ivana Pilja showed incredible skill and jaw-dropping structures with her exaggerated leg of mutton sleeves, humungous Victoriana crinolines and early Gareth Pugh-esque cube and aeronautic padded shaping.  Faces were covered in kaleidoscopic black and white patterned fabric, continuing onto the forms and accessories such as tights and leggings.  This monochromatic body origami added an almost costume feel to the avant-garde designs and having already gathered fans such as Dita Von Teese and Skunk Anansie, this proved an unmissable end to a fantastic show highlighting the artistic talent of these wonderful designers.

Victoria Geaney
Photos: Krish Nagari