Milan Fashion Week AW18: Roundup
Milan Fashion Week is renowned for being the glamourous sister of London, New York and Paris. But, this year the stakes were higher after such attention grabbing weeks at both New York and Paris. You might wonder how it is possible to top the Queen of England sitting on the FROW at Richard Quinn, but with brands like Gucci, Fendi and Versace on the schedule, the competition is rife.
Gucci might be the name, but Game of Thrones was the game at this autumn/winter 2018 catwalk. Some models walked down the catwalk holding a copy of their own head, or cradling models of baby dragons and snakes that juxtaposed with the brightly lit catwalk complete with dentist chair and light.
Checked fabrics on trousers and oversized coats were in excess – but then again, so was practically every other print. Trainers featuring Gucci’s iconic green and red stripes were on the feet of all models, either in a chunky, extreme shape, or with backs forced down by the heels. Layers were in abundance in varying shapes and textures.
Fendi have jumped on to the bandwagon, bringing their iconic logo back into popularity. Given their collaboration with Fila for autumn/winter 2018, this is hardly surprising. Wool featured heavily throughout, punctuating the majority of the collection and setting the colour tone of varying beige tones.
Leatherette, plaid and fur dominated, while structures were very sharp with strong shoulders, pleating and collars. Despite these preppy vibes, there was a definite nod to streetwear and Fila. Oversized sweatshirts in Fila’s retro colours added a nostalgic nod, but with the Fendi logo culminating with Fila’s, this collection is nothing but modern.
Miuccia Prada has been designing for many years, but the Foundazione Prada complex is the most recent addition to the brand. Set in a neon jungle against a dark Milan sky, neon was the key word. Florescent plaid and mesh were dominant, as well as oversized coats and tight bodices.
While Miuccia Prada is a renowned feminist and this collection was no different to her past, but with more of a “pussy fights back” mantra, represented throughout the powerful silhouettes and colours.
OK, picture Jackie O as an alien. Can’t do it? Well take a look at Moschino as Jeremy Scott bought that vision to live. Skirt suits in a multi-coloured array took to the catwalk complete with 60s pill-box hats and bouffant bobs.
Varying models were painted blue in an avatar manner, lacquered with pink nails and pouts, the whole catwalk was distinctly retro pop-art. 60s mini dresses in varying forms – sleeveless, blazer, long-sleeved – were covered in illustrations by Ben Frost, an Australian pop artist. With patterns reflecting the packaging of products such as Skittles, is this a commentary the relationship between capitalism and art?
Continuing to draw upon the Versace archive files during the twentieth anniversary year of her brother’s, the founder of the brand, death. Following on from the recent trench coat trend, Versace opened the show with a plum PVC number. This theme continued throughout, with collared jackets of all varieties include a woollen trench, cropped jackets and blazers.
Probably the most unsuspected trend of fashion month, Donatella bought back the football scarf, but with a chic twist as it was adorned with the Versace logo. Add some figure-flattering tailoring to the mix in a blue and yellow check for style inspiration.
Boxy jackets paired with matching suit skirts or trousers in alternating neutral tones to open the Marni’s autumn/winter 2018 catwalk. Shearling trimmings, jackets and accessories in pastel colours were topped with toggles, presented contrasting themes.
Francesco Risso’s debut was an introduction to a new Marni aesthetic. The toneless, yet chic suits from the beginning were juxtaposed against textured materials, culminating in a series of colourful sequin appliqued dresses. An identity search while the fashion brand takes another foot forward.
A brand that is reminiscent of the most feminine woman, this Max Mara collection presented a vision of feminine women of the world. Wiggle dresses in formed the basis for the brand’s silhouettes, passing over on to leatherette bomber jackets and blouses.
Short-furred coats covered up silk slip dresses, while the addition of leather gloves and boots emulated vintage vibes. The real stand-out, however, was the splashes of leopard print nestled throughout, including one all over look on Gigi Hadid. It’s official, leopard print is the material of the fall 2018.
Dolce and Gabbana
So it might have not been in Milan, but Dolce and Gabbana has been a regular in the Italian fashion capital for many years. The show took place in the Oratorio di Santa Cita church in Palermo, Sicily. However, the show was the real thing making history, adeptly named Fashion Sinner.
The show was opened, not by models, but by eight handbags floating down the catwalk, carried by eight drones. The clothing was swiftly bought viewers back to the reality that they were, in fact, in a Catholic church, with opulent baroque patterns featuring on silk throughout. Similar imagery of crosses, crowns and jewels tones on strongly tailored dresses, suits and coats, proving this is one collection to worship.