The Upcoming
  • Cinema & Tv
    • Movie reviews
    • Film festivals
      • Berlin
      • Tribeca
      • Sundance London
      • Cannes
      • Locarno
      • Venice
      • London
      • Toronto
    • Show reviews
  • Music
    • Live music
  • Food & Drinks
    • News & Features
    • Restaurant & bar reviews
    • Interviews & Recipes
  • Theatre
  • Art
  • Travel & Lifestyle
  • Literature
  • Fashion & Beauty
    • Accessories
    • Beauty
    • News & Features
    • Shopping & Trends
    • Tips & How-tos
    • Fashion weeks
      • London Fashion Week
      • London Fashion Week Men’s
      • New York Fashion Week
      • Milan Fashion Week
      • Paris Fashion Week
      • Haute Couture
  • Join us
    • Editorial unit
    • Our writers
    • Join the team
    • Join the mailing list
    • Support us
    • Contact us
  • Competitions
  • Facebook

  • Twitter

  • Instagram

  • YouTube

  • RSS

CultureFood & DrinksRestaurant & bar reviews

Itaku in Fitzrovia: “Where Italian and Japanese cuisines meet”

Itaku in Fitzrovia: “Where Italian and Japanese cuisines meet” | Restaurant review
11 April 2022
Cristiana Ferrauti
Avatar
Shot by Virginie Viche
Avatar
Cristiana Ferrauti Shot by Virginie Viche
11 April 2022

Food

Cristiana Ferrauti0

Itaku

BarQuick & easyCasual foodFine dining
QUICKCASUALFINE DINING

Concept

Casual dining

Cuisine

Italian-Japanese - Casual dining

Highlights

Monkfish, Cappelletti in Dashi

Tip

Try the cocktail pairings

Links

InstagramFacebookWebsiteMap

After so many moons of being unable to journey, we’re now experiencing a travel frenzy, with people booking short trips, long tours and faraway holidays. Being in two places simultaneously, thus, would be a wonderful solution indeed. While we await bilocation to be possible, there are ways to immerse yourself in two cultures at the same time. And Fitzrovia has recently welcomed one of the latest foodie ventures that allows exactly that. Celebrity restaurateur Jean-Bernard Fernandez-Versini and chef Ivan Simeoli are the duo behind Itaku, where Italian and Japanese cuisines meet.

The undiscussed protagonists of the menu are fish and pasta, with a small window for the robata grill. There is not one style predominant over the other, rather an encounter of the strong points from the two participants, in some cases the main stage is left to the most classic nipponic dishes, in others, the Mediterranean fashions lead the way.

For entrées, it is suggested to share some of the options from the raw bar. Oysters, carpaccio, burrata: this section of the menu is a parade of good produce. Like the elegant and minimalist interior decor, the presentation is extremely curated here. And the Wild Seabass Sashimi doesn’t disappoint: pink slices symmetrically crossing the plate lie on a pond of parsley oil and ‘nduja sauces. The visual contrast doesn’t exactly mirror a contrast of flavours, but every bite reveals the superb quality of each ingredient. World-renowned Mazara del Vallo red prawns also well satisfy the palate. The combination with the Perigord truffle, however, doesn’t necessarily elevate the dish, as the two elements have very distinctive flavour profiles that simply juxtaposed do not blend so much.

For pasta devotees, some of the names from the dedicated category on the menu may sound quite daring. We go for the Cappelletti in Dashi, and it’s a wonderfully gratifying choice. Each “little hat” swimming in a miso broth with an umami aftertaste, has a mellow filling of wakamame and Japanese mushrooms. The most enjoyable pick though is the monkfish: the tender meaty lump – whose quality we already tested with the starters – is lightly complemented by the barba di frate (opposite-leaved saltwort) and miso, and well enriched by the creamy pumpkin sauce.

The wine list barely fills two small pages, with a select range of wines by the glass. But, in a way, it is counterbalanced by the liquors and cocktails list. Nicholas Medicamento, who boasts experience from around the world – including The Savoy’s American Bar – is in charge and skilfully blends Italian and Japanese elixirs. Madame Butterfly pays tribute to its namesake’s opera with refreshing sipping, featuring a fair bubbling from the Moët & Chandon Brut Imperial Rose. On the citrusy spectrum, the Kombu Daquiri offers an interesting mix of Eminente Claro rum and Honjozo Genshu sake kombu, finished with vegan foam topped with kombu.

The desserts are plated as deconstructed, with the different elements spread over a white clean dish. Milk & Honey is the perfect end-note for those fond of caramel and syrupy tendencies. Yoghurt mousse and Fiordilatte gelato are crowned with a crunchy meringue slab, sided by a dash of lavender honey and sprinkled with caramel crumble. For the Itaku Tiramisu, we are presented with a creamy roll with a spongy core, made of velvety coffee semifreddo, and flanked by an indulgent chocolate crunch.

The poised atmosphere of the main dining room quite radically changes when paying a visit to the toilets, located at the lower level. As we go downstairs, an explosion of colours hits us with the funky decoration provided by Evan Barlow murals.

Excellent products naturally come with a certain price tag, and considering the area, the overall cost does not exceed too much our expectations. Some combinations could have been played with in a more original way, but there are other dishes, like the cappelletti and the monkfish, where there is a pleasant balance of flavours and texture. And the cocktails are a match not to be missed.

Cristiana Ferrauti
Photos: Virginie Viche

To book a table at Itaku, 110 Great Portland Street London W1W 6PQ, call 020 7323 1885 or visit their website here.

Related ItemsfeaturedFitzroviaItakulondonrestaurantreview

More in Food & Drinks

Albert Adrià reopens Enigma on 7 June as a “fun-dining” restaurant and cocktail bar

Food Desk
Read More

Three-Michelin-star restaurants L’Effervescence and SingleThread announce first post-Covid collaboration in Tokyo

Food Desk
Read More

World’s 50 Best to announce 50 Next list of young people shaping the future of gastronomy on 24th June in Bilbao

Food Desk
Read More

Cinco de Mayo 2022: Where to celebrate in London

The editorial unit
Read More

Fiend restaurant to host guest chef supper clubs with Ollie Dabbous and Gareth Ward

Food Desk
Read More

World’s 50 Best announce 2022 Champions of Change

Food Desk
Read More

Colette and Manon Lagrève team up for limited-edition chocolate cake in support of Save the Children in Ukraine

Food Desk
Read More

Alberto Landgraf brings a taste of Brazil to London: A feat of culinary chemistry

Rosamund Kelby
Read More

Carlo Scotto to open two-floor fine-dining restaurant Amethyst in Mayfair

Food Desk
Read More
Scroll for more
Tap

Food

Cristiana Ferrauti0

Itaku

BarQuick & easyCasual foodFine dining
QUICKCASUALFINE DINING

Concept

Casual dining

Cuisine

Italian-Japanese - Casual dining

Highlights

Monkfish, Cappelletti in Dashi

Tip

Try the cocktail pairings

Links

InstagramFacebookWebsiteMap

  • Popular

  • Latest

  • TOP PICKS

  • Albert Adrià reopens Enigma on 7 June as a “fun-dining” restaurant and cocktail bar
    Food & Drinks
  • Banter Jar at Lion & Unicorn Theatre: “An authentic and timely one-woman show”
    ★★★★★
    Theatre
  • Three-Michelin-star restaurants L’Effervescence and SingleThread announce first post-Covid collaboration in Tokyo
    Food & Drinks
  • Crimes of the Future: Three new clips from David Cronenberg’s dystopian body horror film
    Cannes
  • The Road Dance
    ★★★★★
    Movie review
  • Harka
    ★★★★★
    Cannes
  • Rodeo
    ★★★★★
    Cannes
  • Alma Viva
    ★★★★★
    Cannes
  • “When you’re presented with different dilemmas in life, you respond accordingly”: Debbie Kurup on The Cher Show
    Theatre
  • Lykke Li – EYEYE
    ★★★★★
    Album review
  • Rodeo
    ★★★★★
    Cannes
  • Alma Viva
    ★★★★★
    Cannes
  • 2:22 A Ghost Story at Criterion Theatre
    ★★★★★
    Theatre
  • The House of Shades at Almeida Theatre
    ★★★★★
    Theatre
  • Final Cut (Coupez!): “A love letter to filmmaking”
    ★★★★★
    Cannes
The Upcoming
Pages
  • Contact us
  • Join mailing list
  • Join us
  • Our London food map
  • Our writers
  • Support us
  • What, when, why
With the support from:
International driving license

Copyright © 2011-2020 FL Media

The Godfather Trilogy: 50th Anniversary Edition 4K Ultra HD review
The World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards ceremony returns to London on 18 July