Bar Crispin in Soho: “The lovely thing is that the food comes in the perfect portions to offset the alcoholic intake”
Kingly Street is a special place, and to fit in there, a place has to have something special. Bar Crispin, the new natural wine bar and restaurant which has recently set up shop a few doors down from Dishoom’s Soho outlet, has announced itself with a promising spark. It’s the latest venture from Dominic Hamdy and Oliver Hiam, founders of Spitalfields restaurant Crispin, with an all-day menu ranging from speciality coffee and pastries to low-intervention wine and seasonal sharing plates.
For a place that’s so focussed on organic produce, the design is strangely geometric, but it works thanks to small eccentric details such as angular plaster lamp shades hanging on wires below chunky uncut minerals; bottles held in suspension within a concertina rack across the entrance; and zig-zag candle holders. It’s stylish in an understated way, like that one quietly confident friend we are all secretly jealous of.
The first wines we sample are a fruity Entre Vinyes’s pét-nat and Aphros’ Phaunus Lourerio orange. The first is our favourite, light and floral with hints of green apple, while the latter, a skin-contact ages in lees, has citric notes that are a little harsh.
Usually I avoid cheeseboards when reviewing restaurants as a rule, but since it’s also a wine bar, a local selection from Neal’s Yard Dairy is too tempting to pass over. While the brie is heavenly, it’s actually the addition of Bermondsey honeycomb and a less conventional helping of marmalade that makes this such a pleasing spread.
To escort the rest of the small plates, we order a couple of reds: Fattoria di Sammontana’s Alberese and Silice from Silice Viticoltores. The first is chilled, bright, and summery, offering up enticing berry aromas. The latter is a stronger contender for our affections: made from a blend of mencía and local varieties, this Spanish bottle has a considerable presence, though still works well at the beginning of the meal.
The best surprise of the evening when it comes to the food is the Anchovy and Potato Focaccia. This arrives beautifully presented, the shiny pink anchovies and vibrant salsa verde resting atop piped, lightly browned mash and crisp focaccia. Biting into it sets something special into motion: creamy and crunchy textures meet intense salty and fresh flavours.
Sadly, the burrata that follows has already been released – there’s nothing quite like the joy of breaking into it yourself – but it comes in a tasty oil and lemon bath that makes us wish we had ordered a basket of absorbent bread. The tartare is also nice enough, given a bit of a leg up by spicy horseradish sauce and unexpected crunchy kernels of corn.
We move onto whites, starting with a Mas d’Aglis Le Grande Carré, soft and delicate. Our preferred glass, though, is the Cascina Zerbetta Quattrocento, a surprising sauvignon blanc with great structure. It’s a fitting accompaniment for our main, which is the fish of the day: a Cornish sole, cooked to perfection. The flesh is so soft it almost melts, and it also works well with our chosen side, a rather fitting bowl of Cornish mids, cooked up in what feels almost like a warm, garlic-infused potato salad. Interestingly, this species of fish, which is sourced off the south coast, never quite caught on in the UK despite being popular in Spain. Originally called megrim, it has been rebranded as Cornish sole in an attempt to increase its appeal, and on first encounter, it feels like a fish that could make its mark on a menu without making too big a mark on the environment.
The dessert offers the perfect close. The Burnt Cheesecake is one of the best Basque cheesecakes I’ve ever tasted, incredibly light and fluffy, with just the right amount of char. It’s accompanied by a boozy sauce that’s subtle yet sure.
The lovely thing about Bar Crispin, other than the menu itself, is that the food comes in the perfect portions to offset the alcoholic intake, meaning you can pace yourself perfectly, way into the evening. We leave feeling satisfied, but not too full; merry, but not intoxicated. Of course, the balance is up to you – but it’s worth making it to dessert.
Rosamund Kelby
Photos: Azhul Mohamed
To book a table at Bar Crispin, 19 Kingly Street Carnaby London W1B 5PY, call or visit their website here.
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