Yuma Hashemi’s Drunken Butler: A journey into authentic Persian home-cooking and sophisticated wines

Nestled in the vibrant culinary scene of London, the Drunken Butler is the brainchild of Yuma Hashemi, a former chef and wine lover with a magnetic personality. Hashemi’s passion for wine and hospitality is palpable in his stories of the challenges and triumphs he has faced as a restaurateur.

A marble table with a history used to lie at the heart of the Drunken Butler, acting as a symbol of Hashemi’s conviviality and ingenuity – he had built it himself, the large piece intended to bring people together – but it is temporary on hold due to the pandemic restrictions. Hashemi speaks fondly of all his furniture: “Where you sit now, it’s an old table from my parents; it hails from Denmark in the 1960s.”

The restaurateurs’s enthusiasm for wine is infectious as he recounts his travels to visit winemakers in different countries, France and Italy first and foremost. His vision for the Drunken Butler’s wine list is one that evolves, ensuring that the restaurant always offers a curated, unique selection. In his quest to create an intriguing and ever-changing experience for his guests, Hashemi champions small wine producers and the precious stories behind their bottles.

“We do a blind tasting menu, which is what most of the guests pick. It’s funny because sometimes there’s this gentleman who doesn’t want to look bad in front of their friends, so we have this little eye contact and I show the label just to him,” he tells us. “It’s not about making someone feel good or bad, it’s about helping them discover new wines. Sometimes they would just tell me ‘I don’t like chablis’ but then they try it blindly and say ‘it’s wow'”.

The Drunken Butler’s cuisine is an homage to Hashemi’s roots, interwoven with his own creative flair. His dedication to serving authentic, home-cooked Iranian dishes sets the restaurant apart from the typical Persian dining experience. The commitment to quality is evident in the painstakingly prepared Tahdig, a crunchy saffron rice with potatoes and barbecued chicken that is cooked individually and can take up to 48 hours to prepare: “It’s home-cooked food but served in a restaurant which doesn’t even in Iran really exist because you eat the same food at home right?” This one-of-a-kind offering has resonated with guests, with many comparing the dishes to their own mothers’ cooking.

As a melting pot of cultures and culinary traditions, London provides the perfect backdrop for the Drunken Butler’s unique, authentic approach. Hashemi acknowledges the city’s dynamic food scene, which allows him to experiment with his menu. The restaurant used to be much more French in style, and this evolution has piqued the curiosity even of those who were accustomed to that. “The amount of positive feedback we got just by sending out one newsletter and people saying we’re waiting for this… it’s amazing.” He attributes this success to the comforting familiarity of the dishes and the restaurant’s warm atmosphere: “I think mostly it’s something with the carpets and the baby pictures! [laughs]”

In fact, one of the most captivating aspects of the Drunken Butler is the stories that unfold within its walls. The restaurant has touched the hearts of many guests, some of whom have invited Hashemi to explore new opportunities abroad. These personal connections and emotional reactions to the food are a testament to the restaurateur’s ability to create an immersive dining experience that transcends the simple act of eating.

Hashemi’s love for the negroni, the Drunken Butler’s signature cocktail, speaks to his appreciation of the art of mixology and the history behind each ingredient. With an ever-growing collection of vintage bottles, he takes pride in serving aged negronis with a unique twist, reflecting his adventurous spirit and passion for discovery.

The Drunken Butler is more than just a restaurant: it is a reflection of Yuma Hashemi’s devotion to wine, food and hospitality. His personality and immense curiosity ensure that every visit is a fascinating journey, unveiling new layers of flavour, history and connection with each sip and bite.

Filippo L’Astorina
Photos: Filippo L’Astorina

To book a table at the Drunken Butler, 20 Rosebery Avenue London EC1R 4SX, call 020 7101 4020 or visit their website here.