Iginio Massari brings the art of panettone to London with a masterclass: “Without curiosity you don’t improve”
Panettone maestro Iginio Massari was in London for a special masterclass at Le Cordon Bleu, held in collaboration with Molino Dallagiovanna and Agrimontana. The pastry chef guided both young and seasoned professionals step-by-step through making the perfect panettone. While May might seem an unusual month to bake the festive Italian cake, it was a unique opportunity to learn from Massari himself, and even got our hands dough-deep shaping panettone the traditional way.
We sat down with Massari, whose passion for making pastries is as profound as his mastery. “Panettone,” he explained, “truly represents Italy worldwide. Thanks to global competitions like the Panettone World Cup (whose next selection is set for 26th September 2025), its status has grown exponentially.” Massari highlighted the broad significance of this seemingly humble treat, emphasising its role beyond mere culinary delight: “Through this cake, Italian companies export not just flour and candied fruits – the essential ingredients – but the very machinery that makes it possible.”
Massari’s precision and rigour were on full display as he shared personal insights from 70 years of experience: “Just four or five years ago, I realised I was mixing my dough ‘incorrectly’. The gluten structure wasn’t forming completely. When you pause to question your methods, that’s when you evolve.” His reflections struck a chord, particularly when he discussed reducing sugar in his pastries by up to 85% compared to traditional recipes: “Too much sugar dominates flavours. It masks the aromatics, which are essential in pastry.”
While it’s true he has decades of experience, like the people attending the masterclass he too had to start somewhere. So we asked him to recall the first panettone he ever made. “I was 15, working in Switzerland as an emigrant – now they say ‘migrant,’ but back then we were simply emigrants,” he said. “A baker named Gerber taught me. That first panettone came out decent, but what truly fascinated me was the baking process: how does something so soft go into the oven and come out fully formed? Curiosity is everything – without it, you don’t improve.”
The conversation flowed seamlessly from panettone to pandoro, another classic Italian holiday staple rapidly gaining popularity in the UK. Massari stressed pandoro’s delicate balance: “Panettone forgives up to a 15% error margin. Pandoro is less forgiving; a 5% mistake ruins the dough completely.” His attention quickly shifted to a pain au chocolat on the table in front of him, prompting a reflection on the science behind perfect pastry – the kind of details he picks up on even when casually enjoying one: “They told me this was very good, but it’s not done correctly. Chocolate acts like a sponge, absorbing moisture. And in fact, it had air pockets inside. That’s what happens when people don’t fully understand the methodology of baking.”
Molino Dallagiovanna’s manager Sabrina Dallagiovanna talked to us about the collaboration with Massari, which began formally in 2017, even though they had known each other for a long time. “Initially, we were clients of Massari. His demanding standards are legendary, but they’ve driven our growth tremendously,” she shared candidly, admitting: “He’s even made me cry, yet his directness profoundly improved me as a manager and individual.
Among the practices that set the company apart is its decision to wash grain before milling – something no other mill does. Massari praised this process for its superior hygiene and quality, saying: “Washing grain ensures cleanliness, removing impurities like tiny stones. This attention to detail makes all the difference in high-quality flour.”
Beyond ingredients and technique, Massari and Dallagiovanna emphasised the central role of communication in contemporary pastry. “Product quality is vital, yes – but so is how you present it,” the manager noted. “Social media, branding, storytelling – these are part of the craft now. Massari pushes us not just to perfect the product, but to elevate how we share it with the world.”
Reflecting on their global journey promoting panettone, she proudly mentioned previous events in Barcelona, Tokyo, and Paris, as well as an upcoming one in Las Vegas. Their ambition, she explained, is straightforward: “To introduce artisanal panettone worldwide.” However, Massari pointed out: “Being artisanal doesn’t automatically guarantee quality. The skill and commitment of each pastry chef remain paramount.”
He also took a moment to highlight the contribution of another key partner in the project, Agrimontana, praising their meticulous production methods: “They’re one of the very few companies that candy citrus peel in quarters and dice it only after, in syrup. That way, the essential oils stay in the peel rather than being lost in water. It’s a slower process – you might only get 25 kilos versus 100 – but the flavour is unmatched.”
As our conversation wrapped up, the chef shared a philosophical note: “Curiosity drives improvement. When you believe you’ve reached perfection, that’s precisely when you start to decline.” His words lingered as attendees savoured slices of freshly baked panettone, reinforcing how tradition, combined with curiosity and relentless precision, remains central to mastering this celebrated Italian delicacy.
Filippo L’Astorina, the Editor
For further information about Iginio Massari visit the website here, for Molino Dallagiovanna visit the website here, for Agrimontana visit the website here, and for details on the UK selection of the Panettone World Cup visit here.
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