Tommi’s Burger Joint in Marylebone

9^th August 2013

Niki Shakallis

Niki Shakallis

9 August 2013

London has no shortage of burger chains for insatiable carnivores and it’s pleasing to see Tommi’s Burger Joint – a Scandinavian-owned, former pop-up in London’s Marylebone district – taking up permanent residence despite an influx of rivals from the States. Their lip-smackingly good burgers are cooked on an American gas grill, enhancing the charcoal flavour and ensuring an authentic taste as first-rate as any experienced burger joint across the pond.

Curiously, the restaurant’s interior is more akin to a dockside fisherman’s shack than an inner city diner: wooden fixtures and furniture are paired with sufficient rope and wire netting to snare a thrashing shark! Added to exposed brickwork, colourful fairy lights, peeling plasterwork and endearing customer art drawn on takeaway bags, the intriguing décor is as fascinating as it is comfortable.

Partaking in the “Offer of the Century”- a burger, fries and soda for less than £10 – we were somewhat dismayed to realise that an appetising new range of milkshakes wasn’t included in the deal. However, the quality of the food, made with UK-sourced produce, quickly dispelled our disappointment and the milkshakes were promptly forgotten.

Our expertly cooked burgers – a medium-rare, single patty with no additional toppings and a well done cheeseburger – arrived neatly wrapped and nestled in a wicker basket alongside a liberal portion of crispy fries. Each delicious bite yielded a new release of flavour and texture, beginning with the smoky char of tender, coarsely-ground beef, followed by crunchy iceberg lettuce, red onion and fresh tomato, nicely complemented by a ketchup, mayonnaise and mustard-soaked brioche bun. The melted American cheese was just as it should be: a near flavourless, shiny square with the inexplicable ability to make everything taste even better.

Unfortunately, our meal came to an abrupt halt following the sighting of a short, dark hair buried among the golden French fries. Head chef Siggi Gunnlaugsson apologised profusely and explained that this was not the restaurant’s usual standard of service. Indeed, the venue was heaving with satisfied, returning customers, clearly indicating that our misfortune was likely to be a one-off incident. Compensated with vouchers for a complimentary meal, we remained to bask in the relaxing atmosphere with a cup of coffee, available to diners at no extra cost from a self-service station near the entrance.

Hairy shenanigans aside, Tommi’s Burger Joint is worthy of a prominent spot in any countdown of the best burger bars in London. The food was hugely gratifying and worthy of unbridled praise. A return visit is not so much a possibility as it is a certainty!

Food: 18/20
Drinks: 13/20
Service: 18/20
Tommi’s Burger Joint: 49/60

Niki Shakallis
Photos: Monika Jørgesen

For further information or to book a table at Tommi’s Burger Joint, 30 Thayer Street, London W1U 2QP, call 07823 557 945 or visit here.