Michelin Guide 2017: New but obsolete? At last recognition for the Ritz and Veeraswamy
The wait is over, as Michelin has once again unveiled their definitive list of extraordinary restaurants, covering more than two dozen countries and thousands of establishments.
Veeraswamy, the capital’s oldest Indian restaurant, and longstanding staple the Ritz both picked up a star for the first time, with the guide’s editor, Rebecca Burr praising their “long and illustrious histories”, as well as the all-time high standards both restaurants had exhibited in the past year. Elsewhere, The Ninth in Fitzrovia The Five Fields in Chelsea and Céleste in Knightsbridge all continued their areas’ excellent record with fine dining, picking up a star each.
Not that there wasn’t any recognition for London’s more exciting new culinary areas. Ellory and Pidgin in Hackney, and Trinity in Clapham also all received a star this year. It was a clear sign of the guide’s increasing desire to broaden its horizons. However, it has to be said that both Ellory and Pidgin have lost their chefs way before the guide was published, making these two awards obsolete.
London also earned itself no less than 15 Bib Gourmands, which are awarded for more affordable, accessible offerings. The initiative is the cornerstone of Michelin’s attempt to somewhat demystify and rebrand its approach to dining, as they seek to reestablish themselves as the definitive guide for good eating, not just a fine dining bible. Funnily enough – or sadly – one of these 15 restaurants closed in early 2015 (Newman Arms) but nevertheless has received a Bib Gourmand this year.
Outside of the capital. Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck retained its three stars after a year off the list due to its reinvention and world travels. This was no surprise, as a glowing reception for Blumenthal’s relaunched flagship reiterated the truly world class standard the chef is known for. His empire also earned a further Michelin star with their pub the Crown, in Bray too.
The Square was the biggest loser from this year’s guide in London, failing to retain either of its two stars. The decision is likely linked to the departure of Phil Howard and Nigel Platts-Martin, the restaurant’s cornerstones ever since its rise to prominence. Elsewhere, Hibiscus (closed), Brasserie Chavot (closed), Arbutus (closed), Wild Honey, Launceston Place and L’Autre Pied all lost their stars.
Daniel Masters
Photo: Filippo L’Astorina
The Michelin Guide 2017 full list
London
Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester
Gordon Ramsay
Outside London
Fat Duck new
Waterside Inn
London
Araki
Dinner by Heston Blumenthal
Greenhouse
Hélène Darroze at The Connaught
Ledbury
Le Gavroche
Marcus
Sketch (The Lecture Room & Library)
Umu
Outside London
Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles
Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons
Gidleigh Park
Hand and Flowers
Le Champignon Sauvage
L’Enclume
Midsummer House
Patrick Guilbaud
Raby Hunt new
Restaurant Nathan Outlaw
Restaurant Sat Bains
The Dining Room at Whatley Manor
London
Alyn Williams at The Westbury
Amaya
Ametsa
Angler
Barrafina
Benares
Bonhams
Chez Bruce
City Social
Clove Club
Club Gascon
Céleste new
Dabbous
Dining Room at the Goring
Ellory new
Fera at Claridge’s
Five Fields new
Galvin at Windows
Galvin La Chapelle
Gymkhana
Hakkasan Hanway Place
Hakkasan Mayfair
Hedone
HKK
Kai
Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs
Kitchen W8
La Trompette
Lima Fitzrovia
Locanda Locatelli
Lyle’s
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon
Murano
Outlaw’s at the Capital
Pidgin new
Pied à Terre
Pollen Street Social
Portland
Pétrus
Ritz Restaurant new
River Café
Seven Park Place
Social Eating House
St John
Story
Tamarind
Texture
The Glasshouse
The Ninth new
Trinity new
Trishna
Veeraswamy new
Yauatcha Soho
Outside London
5 North St
21212
Adam’s
Albannach
Alimentum
Aniar
Bath Priory
Black Rat
Black Swan
Boath House
Bohemia
Box Tree
Braidwoods
Butchers Arms
Bybrook at Manor House Hotel
Campagne
Carters of Moseley
Casamia
Chapter One
Cross at Kenilworth
Crown new
Driftwood
Eipic
Fischer’s at Baslow Hall
Forest Side new
Fraiche
Gilpin Hotel & Lake House new
Gravetye Manor
Greenhouse
Hambleton Hall
Harrow at Little Bedwyn
Heron & Grey new
Hinds Head
House at Cliff House Hotel
House of Tides
Isle of Eriska
James Sommerin new
John’s House
JSW
Kinloch Lodge
Kitchin
Lady Helen at Mount Juliet Hotel
Loam
Lords of the Manor
L’Ecrivain
L’Ortolan
Martin Wishart
Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond
Masons Arms
Morston Hall
Northcote
Number One
Nut Tree
Ocean
Ormer by Shaun Rankin
Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen
OX
Paul Ainsworth at No.6
Peel’s at Hampton Manor Hotel new
Pipe and Glass Inn
Pony & Trap
Purnell’s
Red Lion Freehouse
Restaurant Hywel Jones by Lucknam Park
Restaurant Tristan
Royal Oak
Simon Radley at Chester Grosvenor
Simpsons
Sir Charles Napier
Sosban & The Old Butchers new
Star Inn
The Cellar
The Checkers
The Elephant
The Man Behind the Curtain
The Neptune
The Peat Inn
The Samling
The Sportsman
The Whitebrook
The Wild Rabbit new
Thomas Carr @ The Olive Room new
Treby Arms
Tudor Room at Great Fosters Hotel new
Turners @ 69
Tyddyn Llan
Walnut Tree
West House
wilk’s
Woodspeen
Ynyshir
Yorke Arms
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