Manitoba Tigella in New Oxford Street launch
Central London is a demanding mistress, requiring a great versatility to suit the hungry masses. Manitoba graciously takes up this mantle, with an artful range of Italian cuisine that toes the line between comfort food and fine dining.
Proffering to be London’s first tigella bar, Manitoba cultivates a feeling of expectancy and mystery: what exactly is a tigella? Why do they taste so good? Should I be eating this many?
Made from similar ingredients to bread, tigella are of the same family as a piadina, an Italian flatbread used a bit like a sandwich. They are, however, much smaller, and you’ll need four or five to constitute a meal. It’s a carb-heavy way of eating, but the menu lends itself to slider style dining, which, in theory, makes it easier to control portions (or lose total control). It’s a versatile way of eating that feels casual, and is perfect for those days when you fancy a bit of everything.
Samples of the Affettati, tigella with Parma ham and salami, the bread accented beautifully by the fresh charcuterie, promise excellent dining in a restaurant that rivals the beauty of its food.
This was quickly followed by the Prosciutto and Stracchino, a tigella with soft cheese and Parma ham that melts in your mouth. The simple flavours are masterfully paired, and you get a real sense of pride in the ingredients and Italian culture, which is nicely juxtaposed with the vast windows that look straight out into bustling London.
We finished with a sample of the Panne Cotta e Fragole, and a Chocolate Brownie. They were the dangerous combination of moreish and light, seemingly the venue’s signature style. In particular, the Panne Cotta shone; with its subtle textures, flavours, and attention to detail it is almost emblematic of Manitoba’s philosophy of simplicity.
There’s a huge amount of thought for detail here, from the subtle stylish venue, to the way the kitchen is left open near the bar, allowing you to see exactly how your meal is prepared. There is a lot of onus nowadays put on the quality of ingredients and skill of the chefs, and Manitoba proudly displays its food at every stage of preparation, while remaining effortlessly cool.
Overall, Mantioba draws you in with the novelty of the team’s tigella, and will keep you coming back with the quality of their food.
Alexander Bawden
To book a table at Manitoba Tigella, 82 New Oxford St, London WC1A 1HB, call 020 7436 8231 or enquire here.
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