Vivienne Hu autumn/winter 2017 collection catwalk show for NYFW
From mini skirts to down coats, Vivienne Hu has you covered for whatever the weather throws at you. The fabrics and textures provided by her designs was plentiful. Hu played with the unique feel of each fabric and was able to translate her simple design aesthetic through each material. She was able to create an ensemble that was practical, yet edgy with the different details she added. The rock ‘n’ roll music playing in the background also played into the idea of edge. However, this military inspired structure was softened with the implementation of more flowing aspects creating an elegant power complex.
In many pieces a more minimalistic colour palette was implemented, and this simplistic nature was heightened through the subtle use of fabric detailing such as ruffles or fur. The specific fur detailing of the puffer coat is a point of focus. While both the down coat and the fur detailing are means to keep warm, the two different fabrics are actually different elements in terms of the actual texture. This dichotomy adds an interesting and fun tone to the structure of the garments, and the unifying plush material works in complete harmony within the collection.
The playful nature was exhibited in the striped cropped trouser suit. While the colours were still leaning towards neutral, the pattern allowed the tone to shift away from severity. Hu’s retake on the traditional jacket launches this piece into modernity. The bubble effect created in the shoulders adds an element of play and also dramatises the piece, while the sliver of skin adds to the sensuality. This piece covered the whole gamut of design, and its far reaching style appeals to a variety of women.
Glow and flow is on full display in the stunning white, high slit gown. It somehow is able to evoke a sense of innocence as well as sexuality. This duality is achieved through an illuminating colour in combination with the whimsical details that ornament the piece. The ruffled shoulder details and the overall drapery of the piece instils the idea of virtue, while the high slit and deep v-neckline adds in opposition the idea of vice. This contrast alludes to the mysterious and sensual nature of the woman.
The structure emanated from the simplistic edge created a malleable canvas in which Hu could experiment with different details and constructions. The contrasting elements work seamlessly to create a cohesive modern collection.
Rose Carlisle
Photos: Stephanie Chang
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