The House of Peroni returns to East London for ten days: With chef Francesco Mazzei and mixologist Simone Caporale

5^th October 2017

Daniel Masters

Daniel Masters

5 October 2017

Half bar, half alcohol-drenched Urban Outfitters, House of Peroni is achingly cool. Bar staff in elegant uniforms, mixing up beautiful cocktails in copper shakers. Francesco Mazzei coating freshly cooked pasta in a wheel of Grana Padano, a cascade of caramelised pink peppercorns falling from his hand to the appreciation of a dozen Instagram stories. A dining room full of atmospheric shadows and fairy lights.

It should be irritating but, oddly, the effect is quite endearing. It’s all very self aware and there’s an element of fun here that so often gets lost in such “events”. It’s very much a residency, rather than an installation, a popup place for people to drink and talk and dance the night away, rather than appreciate the “theme”.

In terms of what’s on offer, said pasta is enjoyable enough, if nothing particularly noteworthy. The caramelised salt is an interesting touch, even if we’re not entirely convinced by its dash of sweetness. Cocktails are likewise solid fair, especially the chinotto montemoro. Created by Federico Doldi, this mix of bacardi, vermouth, chinotto jam and plenty of citrus, it’s a sharp entertaining that lingers beautifully on the palate.

The real reason why you’d come here though, is for the ambiance, and this is one of the few occasions where that word doesn’t stick in the throat. Because here, there really is an electric atmosphere of excitement and enthusiasm, all blended with a relaxed and laid back charm. It feels like Italy, which is a feat that many pop-ups in London have tried to achieve over the years, but very few have actually pulled off.

The House will be here until the 15^th, hosting a number of different events and sets from DJs in the meantime. With an appeal that stretches far beyond the world of filters and humblebrag photos, it’s well worth whiling a night away in its surreal surroundings.

Daniel Masters
Photos: Daniel Masters/Mel Yates

The House of Peroni is at N&C Showrooms, 3-10 Shoreditch High Street London E1 6PG, from 5^th until 15^th October 2017. For further information visit the House of Peroni website here.