Michelin goes backwards in Italy with the 2022 restaurant guide
In an era when addressing diversity and gender inequality is of utmost importance, the new Italian Michelin guide 2022 decides to go backwards. It would have been interesting to witness the meeting where the red guide execs reviewed all their ratings and visits, convening: “The food scene in Italy is doing great and our new issue reflects that.”
People who followed the (rather long) ceremony must have noticed that up until the very last award no female chef had been promoted to culinary stardom. Which is, quite frankly, out of touch with reality. Furthermore, in the whole country of Italy, not only is there just one new non-male cook worthy of the coveted accollade, Michelin has also struck two restaurants led by a woman. This means that, for 2022, there’s one less star with a female sign.
The revelatory event, which took place in the wine region of Franciacorta, was a parade of white men, aged 35 to 55, proudly walking down a red carpet. At least, for once, the representation of the national territory was evenly balanced between north and south, with only one star for the vibrant city of Milan. It’s as if London or Paris got only a single entry, in their respective guides.
Italian cuisine is the world’s most loved and, historically, cooks in family-owned restaurants were predominantly women. So why are there so few female chefs represented? Why is Michelin not actively addressing the gender inequality?
While there shouldn’t be fixed quotas, it’s inconceivable to think that only Solaika Marrocco’s Primo in Lecce was the only new female-led restaurant delivering an excellent meal.
Filippo L’Astorina, the Editor
The Italian Michelin Guide 2022 was revealed today and is accessible for free on their website.
The Michelin Guide Italy 2022 at a glance:
11 restaurants 3-star
38 restaurants 2-star, of which 2 new
329 restaurants 1-star, of which 33 new
17 Michelin Green Star restaurants
255 restaurants Bib Gourmand, of which 20 new
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