What just happened in Biarritz? A Gelinaz event featuring Mathieu Rostaing-Tayard and David Chalmain

I’m still in awe of what happened in the Basque country, just outside Biarritz, but let’s rewind a little.

Mathieu Rostaing-Tayard made a name for himself in 2015, a year into the opening of Café Sillon in Lyon, when it was recognised as the best bistro by Le Fooding, the ultimate contemporary food guide. It’s been on my radar ever since, and after failing to make a stop in 2016, I was sad to see it closing two years later. And equal was my happiness to hear about its reopening – now as Sillon – in Biarritz. The chic town, known for its allure as a glamorous resort and a surfing hotspot, is now making its mark on the culinary world. Many chefs have been drawn to relocate here and to the nearby villages, most notably Iñaki Aizpitarte, who is selling Le Dauphin in Paris to embark on a new venture in Saint-Jean-de-Luz.

After touching down on a direct flight from London and stepping into the Atlantic for a quick bath, I began to enjoy the hospitality of Biarritz. First, at the terrace bar of the delightful boutique hotel Saint Jean, a former house that’s been converted into a cosy inn. Simple luxury in the rooms and exceptional service make for the perfect retreat. It’s October, but everything screams summer. We sip the well-crafted cocktails and finally walk towards Sillon.

Rostaing-Tayard has prepared his “carte blanche,” which means he serves whatever he fancies throughout the meal. And that he does. A grilled cep, draped with seaweed, tomatoes from Mendigorria, and red tuna belly; then a turbot, charred over coals, alongside stripes of red mullet and pork’s foot seasoned with bottarga. Natural wine flows freely. Sitting with us is David Chalmain, the composer set to participate in the event the next day. I’m not sure if it’s the food, the conversation, or the intoxicating mix of both, but I find myself wishing I could return the very next day.

As the sun rises, waking up to the ocean breeze is indeed a blessing. None of the guests yet know the location of the event or what will unfold. We follow a car to the outskirts of Biarritz and then onto a bumpy country road, ending up in a verdant field. It’s a hot day, the shade of the trees giving some shelter. There’s a structure at the field’s heart – part kitchen, part music station. As we chat, speculating on the mystery event, smoke starts to curl upward, and Chalmain heads to his analogue synthesisers. Within minutes, we are all equipped with wireless headphones, still clueless, and without explicit instruction, we draw our sun loungers closer to this epicentre, positioning them in a circle.

Music plays a pivotal role in this phase of Gelinaz, a food event series where chefs pair with musicians to enhance the dining experience. Chalmain stands out as a top-tier act, blending classical and experimental compositions with a minimalist flair, reminiscent of artists like Max Richter and Nils Frahm. Today, he’s not just performing; he’s composing on the spot for us, mirroring how the chefs know the ingredients but lack precise recipes.

We are part of a live creative process, one that develops in natural symbiosis. The headphones bring a deeply personal dimension to the event, making it feel as though Chalmain is playing exclusively for me. It’s silent in the field, with all attention on this creative experiment. Everyone, myself included, is captivated, almost spellbound, by this openness and readiness to embrace the unexpected. For a fleeting moment, I feel as though I’m in an Ari Aster movie, bracing for the shocking reveal that I’ve just been served my parents.

By the sounds of it, it might seem like the epitome of a pretentious picnic. But in truth, it’s turned out to be the most fascinating and introspective food event of the year. It’s a collective journey through nature, flavours and self-reflection. We are served a number of dishes, somewhere between five and ten, featuring foraged herbs, organic vegetables and local seafood. Time plays a crucial role as well. As the sun sets, the intensity of the dishes escalates, with grilled meats becoming the focal point. And when the stars start to dot the sky, a mist rolls in from the sea, transforming the once large field into an intimate backyard gathering.”

Filippo L’Astorina, the Editor
Photos: Filippo L’Astorina

For further information and future events visit the Gelinaz website.