Manifest in Liverpool: “Adventure and unexpected encounters without ever leaving the mainland”
Near the docks from where both small and large vessels set sail, making it one of the country’s most important harbours, the Baltic Triangle in Liverpool has evolved into a vibrant area. It has flourished with trendy spots while retaining a strong industrial feel. A stroll around might include a stop at the Red Brick Market (a treasure trove for second-hand finds and craft enthusiasts), Camp and Furnace (a vast venue for parties and cover bands) and independent coffee shops nestled in hangar-like venues. In this district, a gourmet destination opened in March 2022. Manifest celebrates its historic location both in its name, which recalls the cargo and shipping lists that were once commonly hung around the streets, and also in its interior design as well. Occupying the ground floor of a converted warehouse, it presents exposed brick inside and out, steel beams throughout, bare cement floors and a heavy curtain separating the entrance hall, so to speak, from the main dining area. The decor is elevated with polished marble tables and the yellow-backed shelves displaying a selection of rather eclectic bottles.
Beyond the open kitchen, on the other side of the counter, chef-owner Paul Durande is in sight, and you can almost bet on his presence on each visit. Here, he is kneading the dough, now preparing the desserts components, now plating the starters. The restaurant is a project he launched with his wife, Charlotte Durande, after pursuing a career in the kitchen by chance. Following a stint in Edinburgh and then Moor Hall, the growing family back home in Liverpool cleared the path for a more personal venture. Indeed, Manifest’s laid-back environment, the welcoming staff, and the food offering (well crafted without being indulgent or overly pretentious) easily explain why the restaurant is so beloved by locals, and it certainly merits a detour from the city centre for visitors.
The à la carte menu entails a good variety of options catering for a satisfying lunch or dinner, whether choosing only small plates to divide between two diners, going for large ones to share, or opting for a trio sequence each. Anything vegetable-led, from the seasonally changing tart or the confit leeks, is bold and comforting at the same time, akin to a brightly coloured sweater made of hypersoft wool on a grey winter day.
The Chef’s Choice menu features none of the dishes from the main list, making it more of a standalone experience. The seven-course journey, intended to unfold in under three hours, is a creative tour de force with well-paced portions. It begins with Poached Oyster in pineapple weed and chilli oil, accompanied by delightfully crunchy and flavoursome salt and vinegar crisps – yes, real potato crisps, a treat! The wine pairing, mostly based on small-scale producers with a focus on less explored regions, leads with a glass of 2022 Slovakian chardonnay Charlotte 1075, from Strekov. It’s followed by a more classic bottle from the Loire Valley, a 2023 October Blanc, Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame. The subtle notes of this refreshing chenin blanc are a perfect match for the tender core of the XL Scallop served with bits and pieces of varying textures and temperatures, apple ice, hazelnut sauce and chargrilled cauliflower floret.
The Pumpkin Purée, Jerusalem Artichoke Consommé and King Oyster Mushroom is a warming pleasure: earthy broth with a creamy base and little exquisite whole mushrooms. Liverpudlian scouse culture is reimagined here as small lamb skewers, so soft they fall apart at the touch of a fork, balanced by the peppery notes of Patelin de Tablas Blanc 2011, a Californian blend of five white Rhône varieties from Tablas Creek. Following it is a tasty chunk of venison sourced from Lancashire and prepared simply, plated with elderberry, girolles and beetroot sauce, leaving it up to the diner to explore the balance of sweet and juicy elements.
The pre-dessert is an incredible ginger punch, a true palate cleanser, the wild plum adding a dash of sweetness. The final pudding offers a luscious conclusion: Rice Pudding with Blackberry, Almond and Sorrel Granita, so enjoyable that it almost calls for a second serving. The accompanying MR 2022, a Spanish muscat of Alexandria by Molino Real, made from grapes hand-harvested from Málaga North Side and sun-dried in the pasero (generally used for raisins), is an intriguing discovery.
Does Manifest fit in the so-called relaxed dining category? For those who seek clear labels, that’s the group that would best suit. For those open to broader definitions, with menus like these, the restaurant appears to be one of those that always have a trick up their sleeve: an open space where everything is visible and easygoing, yet food is a creative matter approached with professional finesse and resourcefulness – just like a stroll along the harbour, breathing in adventure and unexpected encounters, yet all without ever leaving the mainland.
Cristiana Ferrauti
Photos: Cristiana Ferrauti
To book a table at Manifest, 4a Watkinson Street, Baltic Triangle, Liverpool L1 0AG, visit the restaurant’s website here.
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