Claro; in St James’s

Autumn was slow to arrive in the city this year – only to suddenly turn into winter overnight – but on the evening of our visit to St James’s, a full-force rain came down, and Claro; made for a more than pleasant destination for warmth and comfort. The restaurant is the second outpost of the original in Tel Aviv, the vision of chef Ran Shmueli brought to life. 12 years after the first opening, the concept has now taken root in the heart of London.

The Grade II-listed site, a former bank, lends itself well to the evocative, echoing space designed by DLSM Studio: high ceilings, sturdy window frames and huge walls defining squared-off areas. There’s a grand display of colourful flowers at the entrance, dark wood panelling in the bar area, banquette sofas in the centre of the room, and a brick-walled corner that softens the tone for a more relaxed setting.

When it comes to the menu, choices are best made by ordering a feast to share. The cuisine is Mediterranean in the broader sense (with North African and Middle Eastern influences) and there is a strong focus on the provenance of the ingredients. During our visit, it’s Berkshire month, so the menu is dotted with specials that celebrate the best produce from the area. We start with cocktails, and the drinks in general (particularly the non-alcoholic options) favour herbs and infusions. From among the specials we opt for the Forest Whisper, prepared with Hawkridge Single Malt Whisky, berry sherbet and lemon (offering a slightly acidic note without being excessive), topped with a foam of vegan egg white.

Bread is possibly one of the most democratic baked goods to evaluate, compare and pass judgement upon, and here, it’s very easy indeed to say that the Moroccan Frena Bread is a must. A Taste of Claro provides a selection of intriguing dips to go with it, but for lighter picks that leave room for later indulgences, matchuba, labneh and harissa make for a great selection. While still grazing on appetisers, the Lamb Cigars encapsulate a delicious meaty filling, and the Venison Tartare with potato pavé “cacio e pepe” is wonderfully light and juicy.

Moving to the mains, our dishes are standout examples of impeccable cooking and the lush flavours of their starring ingredients. The Bower Farm Bavette is well seared on the outside and perfectly succulent on the inside, for a true melt-in-the-mouth feeling, to be alternated with the smooth celeriac purée, all finished with a thin demi-glace. The Grilled Butterflied Seabass is delicately dressed in a Ras el Hanout butter sauce that beautifully complements the tender flesh.

The rather steep price tag on the desserts is actually justified by the generous portions. The Date and Whiskey Caramel, arriving at the table in a sizzling cast-iron pan, balances syrupy date cake and whiskey caramel with a dash of freshness from coconut ice cream (eaten quickly before it fully melts on the hot plate!). A single portion of Dark Chocolate Mousse is scooped from a large bowl (showcased tableside), its ambrosial airy cream served over a layer of tahini crumble and crème anglaise, and graced with a caramelised sesame tuile – full enjoyment in food form that doesn’t rely on extreme sweetness to excite diners.

Though the service and dim atmosphere may not be as impressive, what Claro; does superbly is exalt the power of flavour, with embellishments that adorn the dishes with a proper sense of taste, without being overdone.

Cristiana Ferrauti

To book a table at Claro, 12 Waterloo Place, London SW1Y 4AU, call 020 4580 1429 or visit their website here.