Noreen brings modern Levantine cuisine and Syrian-Lebanese flair to Marylebone
Mention Em Sherif to anyone in the know about good Levantine food in London, Lebanon or Dubai, and you’ll be met with a resounding consensus that the food coming out of these kitchens is some of the best around – which is why the prospect of trying new Marylebone restaurant Noreen, headed up by ex-Em Sherif chef Mehdi Hani, is truly exciting.
Hani is of Syrian and Lebanese origin, and intends to draw on this heritage to bring traditional fare to the London food scene, celebrating the flavours and culinary techniques of the region while elevating them for the modern palate. Accompanying the food is a cocktail menu, designed in collaboration with Mr Lyan Studio, that crafts innovative options using typical Middle Eastern ingredients such as arak, hibiscus and tahini.
Upon arrival, the first thing that stands out is the thoughtful decor – a tasteful nod to Syrian craftsmanship and the country’s famous carpentry. Particularly notable are the dining tables, which are beautifully inlaid with mother of pearl foliage motifs. Soft pastel florals decorate the ceilings, contrasting with brightly coloured lampshades and warm tones across the wicker chairs and wood panelled walls. In the corner, there is an open kitchen, which we are told houses a tanoor oven and a minqala grill for fire-kissed meats.
With high expectations, we order plenty from the mezze section, as one must when dining Levantine style, breaking bread over dishes including a take on Hummus Bil Lahme, a silky smooth hummus layered with tender slivers of spiced short rib. The Badenjan, a smoky aubergine dip, takes the place of the typical baba ghanoush, upgraded with a blend of charred and puréed miso aubergine that adds umami depth and texture with added walnuts. Dips are accompanied by a basket filled with puffy rounds of Arabic bread and zaatar topped mana’ish flatbreads.
The Fattoush is welcomingly crisp with its signature fried bread, punchy fresh herbs and lots of citrus, although the promised twist of pomelo is not especially noticeable. There is a Batata Harra, with a slick of garlicky toum, that is particularly moreish, playing with the sensory contrast between soft potato cubes and crunchy potato sticks for a memorable take on a classic. It perfectly compliments the fish dishes we’ve ordered, including the Sea Bass Tahini and the Prawns Hamsa, the latter plump and immersed in oil fragrant with coriander. Both are are expertly cooked, with the former showcasing the skill of the grill chefs.
Traditional plates such as the Moghrabieh Short Rib appealingly showcase ingredients less familiar to the average patron. Here, pasta pearls are enveloped in a spice medley and accompanied by unctuous beef and shallot stew. For dessert, sticky date cake Tamur-O-Harda provides a memorable finish, with an interesting and playful combination of flavours, piled together for a multi-dimensional result that is sweet because of the dates, fragrant with anise and earthy from the tahini.
Together with some cracking cocktails, the dishes on Hani’s menu celebrate and sing with the tastes of the Levant that are so beloved. This is definitely a place to add to the list of solid Eastern Mediterannean restaurants in the capital, promising clever and innovative use of flavours, textures and ingredient combinations backed by expert cooking.
Rasha Barazi
To book a table at Noreen, 28-32 St Christopher’s Place, London W1U 1NU, call 020 3006 0010 or visit the restaurant’s website here.
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